For all the fashionistas out there, the past few weeks might have been overwhelming – keeping eye on everything that happened might have been a lot to take in. Streaming all the catwalks is, after all, a full time job.
The chicest city of Italy was busy during Fashion Week with over 50 shows that took place between 21-27 February. From Prada and Fendi, to new talents such as Durazzi Milano, we present you with the 10 most trend-defining shows of Milan Fashion Week A/W 23.
1. Salvatore Ferragamo
If you’re anything like us, you love a good comeback. The Italian powerhouse that has lost its influence over the recent years brought a new emerging talent for a serious revival. 27-year-old Maximilian Davis presented his sophomore collection after last season’s fiery debut and dazzled visitors with prodigious tailoring, muted hues with bright yellow highlights, and architectural mens looks.
The takeaway lesson of the show to include in your looks: Tailor your garments and invest in opulent fabrics.
2. Tod’s
Walter Chiapponi is a creative director that doesn’t go for shock effect but instead chooses to deliver superb looks that rely on quality and prodigious design. Once again, he chose the Pirelli Hangarbicocca as his venue, just like last year, and relied on a mix of classic Italian and 90s aesthetic to deliver his vision for A/W. One could argue there is nothing more shocking than consistency in today’s fashion.
The takeaway lesson of the show to include in your looks: Invest in a long leather overcoat to spice up classic looks that you can wear anywhere
3. Dolce & Gabbana
Some may call a look back into the archives of a brand in order to deliver a new collection lazy, and sometimes it is. But this year’s ode to the 1992 Belle de Jour collection is anything but. It relies on the vision of the classic Dolce sensual woman, a woman that uses her feminine ways with confidence.
The takeaway lesson of the show to include in your looks: Wearing black isn’t lazy if you do it right. Wear lace in the winter – if you’re afraid of being cold, throw on an oversized cashmere coat.
Dolce & Gabbana | Fall Winter 2023/2024 | Full Show
4. MSGM
If minimalist fashion isn’t your vibe, MSGM presented a show that will enamour you with bright colors, bold looks, and mashup textures. Massimo Giorgetti named his A/W 2023 collection “The Ultimate Illusion” and used Edgar Allen Poe’s poem to tell us about his vision – “an infinite journey, a dream within a dream”. While Mr Giorgetti didn’t completely exclude black looks – the color that will dominate next year – one might argue his catwalk debuted the most creative outfits, with furry footwear and visionary mix of fabrics.
The takeaway lesson of the show is to include in your looks: MSGM shoes are going to be the “it item” of next year. Wear them with a simple silhouette and steal the show.
5. Jil Sander
The avant-garde visitors of Milan Fashion week were blown away with the eclectic Jil Sander show which relied heavily on musical and pop culture influences, including Bjork’s eccentric aesthetic. Lots of leather, biker jackets, futuristic silhouettes were the highlights of the show. Husband and wife duo Luke and Lucie Meier had made an excursion far from the minimalist silhouettes that Jil Sander is known for and reminded us of the last era before social media, between the ‘90s and the naughties.
The takeaway lesson of the show to include in your looks: Put your phone on airplane mode. Don’t be so influenced by influencers – instead, use your highschool looks as reference.
6. Gucci
The last collection of Gucci’s creative team before Sabato De Sarno shows his first directorial debut next season was a way to say goodbye with a bang. A play on office looks, but with an almost surrealist twist, almost looks like a sassy resignation letter. There were many references to Gucci’s rich archive, including the adored Tom Ford era (evident in the opening look) , but in a playful and ultimately original way.
The takeaway lesson of the show to include in your looks: Don’t worry about being cohesive – be playful instead.
The Gucci Women’s Fall Winter 2023 Fashion Show
7. Andreadamo
If you’re here to support emerging talent carving the way for new labels, Andrea Adamo is the designer whose brand we are betting on. Highly influenced by his childhood by the Italian Riviera and the Calabrian beaches, the show ended with a downpour, with models sprinkled with water from the rain machine that was in the center of the venue. Adamo’s catwalks resemble a love letter to the sea, with sensual “almost naked” dresses, masterful tailoring, and utmost respect to the feminine silhouette.
The takeaway lesson of the show to include in your looks: Don’t play with color – play with structure.
8. Sportmax
Sportmax described their collection as “a continuous game of contrasts between bourgeois elegance, primitive chic, and glam androgyny” and we can’t come up with a better way to put it. The runway was influenced by the aesthetic of queer subculture looks of the 80s and 70s, but tied in neutral palettes and superb Italian craftsmanship, the Sportmax show was impressive in every way.
The takeaway lesson of the show is to include in your looks: Don’t be afraid to experiment, but if you want to make your looks too eccentric, just wear beige.
9. Emporio Armani
While the collection was said to have found its inspiration in the circus, all the outfits the models were sent down the runway were ultimately easy to wear. Yes, there were sometimes theatrical elements, such as tiny bowler hats, sequins, and chokers, but the looks were well crafted, subtle, and cohesive.
The takeaway lesson of the show to include in your looks: You can be shocking and subtle at the same time – tell a story with your outfits.
Emporio Armani Women’s Fall Winter 2023-24 Fashion Show
10. Fendi
Inspired by the work of Delfina Delettrez Fendi, the fourth-generation designer of this Italian powerhouse brand, the collection of Kim Jones delivered both sophistication and fresh looks. Punk meets luxury, workwear meets sexappeal – so many contrasts, yet still a balanced aesthetic and story.
The takeaway lesson of the show to include in your looks: The lesson? We can’t wait until the garments are available for purchase. We are wearing Fendi.