Check out the highlights of the first day of Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week
Daniel Roseberry brought forward pieces predominantly in neutral tones, adorned with crystal embroidery, sequins, and even 3D applications for the new Schiaparelli haute couture collection. It also features voluminous silhouettes and sheer fabrics, drawing inspiration from nature with elements like zebras, mushrooms, and feathers.
The context of this collection, which pays homage to Elsa’s unique talent for rebirth, is only surpassed by its form. Schiaparelli also highlighted metallic details, especially in the opening look: a black cape with golden feathers. This piece was inspired by a coq-feathered stole that Elsa Schiaparelli herself wore in honor of the ballerina Anna Pavlova, with whom she was often mistaken.
“But if Pavlova was always associated with her iconic performance in ‘The Dying Swan,’ then Schiaparelli was a phoenix, a magical creature whose power lay in her ceaseless ability to reinvent—not only herself, but fashion, too,” say the brand notes.
Inspired by the sports universe, previously explored only in the ready-to-wear and cruise lines, Maria Grazia Chiuri delved into this theme for this haute couture show in Paris. This season, the creative director of Christian Dior experimented with new fabrics and silhouettes.
On the runway, we saw an array of pieces in crushed velvet, metallic jersey (a first for the haute couture line), and lamé, featuring drapes and crystal embroidery. The primary references in the creative process of this collection were Roman mosaics depicting women wearing early versions of bikinis and holding weights, along with the 1924 Paris Olympics.
“Chiuri returns to the fundamental essence of the garment she cherishes: the peplum, both supple and absolute. The Dior haute couture autumn-winter 2024-2025 collection comes to life against a backdrop of hard-won political freedom for women’s bodies,” say the brand notes.
Backstage at Giambattista Valli’s fall-winter 2025 couture show, the moodboard featured miniature Mughal paintings, details from Botticelli masterpieces like “Primavera,” and vibrant gardens in Jaisalmer, a city in Rajasthan’s Thar Desert. The dresses were inspired by these elements.
It is a romantic collection. The ambiance was enhanced by live sitar and bansuri players, and the models stepped onto the runway with fantastical styling details: flower petals scattered on their cheeks and limbs, chiffon veils over some faces, and others painted blue, a divine color in Hinduism.
Valli revisited some of his signature styles, such as high-low bustier dresses, draped minidresses, and flaring ’50s ballgowns, achieving soft, rounded volumes with silk chiffon. However, the vibrant spice and floral hues took center stage, with shades like saffron, paprika, curry yellow, periwinkle blue, and various pinks, including bougainvillea, stealing the spotlight.