Without introducing too many innovations, the designer takes us from a beach sunset to the office and finally to a nighttime party, all in a matter of seconds.
Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2025 show took place at the Triennale di Milano, under the direction of Sabato de Sarno, who has led the Italian brand for a year and has just launched his third ready-to-wear women’s collection for the label.
The show featured many elements typical of a European summer, such as bandanas adorning the models’ heads, signaling that this trend is here to stay, with no expiration date in sight.
According to the British newspaper The Guardian, Sabato revealed that this new drop reflects his personal obsessions, “including tailoring, lingerie, leather, and 1960s silhouettes, all combined with the tireless exploration of the brand’s heritage — always with a touch of irreverence.”
The models glided down the runway, draped in hues synonymous with the brand’s signature palette, most notably the striking “Rosso Ancora,” a deep red that has become a hallmark of the designer’s aesthetic. Complementing this bold shade were neutral tones like beige, white, black, and gray, exuding an air of effortless sophistication. In contrast, flashes of neon green and military green punctuated the collection, offering a refreshing departure from the otherwise subdued color scheme.
Tank tops had their moment, proving that there’s room for basics too, without ruling out the return of fringes and lace to the wardrobe. Large hats, Gucci Bamboo bags, leather gloves with a hint of fetish aesthetics, gold bracelets and necklaces, belts, boots, sneakers, loafers, and ballet flats completed the looks.
Once again, the brand demonstrates that classic styles can be reinvented in countless ways without losing their refined essence — as seen in the sparkling adornments on a simple, straight-cut black dress.
Certain dresses featured asymmetrical cuts, adding a greater sense of fluidity, while others incorporated subtle transparency, projecting the sensuality often associated with European women.
A laid-back aesthetic also made its mark on the event, with jeans and oversized coats, alongside well-tailored pieces.
The runway featured flashes of light shifting from white to warmer tones, symbolizing “the moment when the sun dips into the sea,” as De Sarno described it.
With a style heavily inspired by the 1960s and 1970s, it raises the question: are we focusing too much on the past, fostering a persistent sense of nostalgia, instead of envisioning a future where fashion becomes a true reference point for new directions?