Paris Fashion Week: Loewe, Giambattista Valli, and Vetements

BY Beatriz Leal

September 27, 2024

Check out the highlights from this Friday.

Paris Fashion Week is now in its fifth day. This Friday (September 27), we witnessed eight new spring-summer 2025 ready-to-wear collections, ranging from Leonard Paris to Victoria Beckham.

Loewe, Giambattista Valli, and Vetements stole the spotlight today. Check it out!

What happens when one takes all the noise away? Is it possible to fill an empty white room, commanding attention, without shouting for space? This collection answers such questions through radical reduction. Stripping everything away, the silhouette remains: bending, bouncing, flowing in curves, long or crudely cropped, moving sideways and away from the body, like falling in and out of a dream,” states Loewe’s notes about the new collection.

The spring-summer 2025 ready-to-wear collection, designed by Jonathan Anderson for Loewe, blends structured tailoring with flowing circular draping. Dresses and skirts are interrupted by casual T-shirts and slim trousers. Boning and wiring expand shapes, emphasizing textures like impressionist floral silks, feather-printed designs, sequined knits, and soft nappa leathers.

On the feet, models wore boat shoes, elongated oxfords, and high-top Ballet Runners. The bags featured include the new trapezoid-shaped Madrid and a lightweight SS25 Puzzle. The show ended with a feathered white T-shirt printed with Johann Sebastian Bach’s sheet music, emphasizing melody and rhythm over excess.

Courtesy of Loewe

For spring-summer 2025, Giambattista Valli revisited his signature elements such as roses, botanical prints, luxe embroideries, bubble skirts, and Indian-inspired details with a modern edge. The collection embraced sheer fabrics, bra tops, and leggy silhouettes.

The show opened with a twisted jersey hooded cape over a white miniskirt, followed by a red silk bow-front peplum paired with shorts and a botanical print T-shirt dress. Eveningwear took a lighter turn, featuring a cream satin minidress adorned with sculpted rosettes and a bra top underneath. Another highlight was a red satin waistcoat worn over a swimsuit, styled with playful red jelly shoes.

Sheer organza and cotton pieces embroidered with Indian motifs played peek-a-boo with lingerie and crystal-encrusted gilets. Feathers added a delicate touch, spilling from peplums or ball skirts on more casual gowns. Sculpted jersey looks and pink tweed shifts with white piping offered a pared-down, structured option amid the more intricate designs.

The color palette included white, red, cream, black, pink, yellow, green, and orange, while fabrications ranged from satin and sheer fabrics to tweed. Key details included bows, flowers, cutouts, feathers, crystals, and bubble skirts.

Courtesy of Giambattista Valli

Last but not least, Vetements was also a highlight on the fifth day of Paris Fashion Week. The show opened with Travis Scott on the runway, as the brand, under Guram Gvasalia’s creative direction, presented glossy black biker leathers—skin-tight and gleaming—along with low-slung trousers and DHL-inspired bodysuits, referencing the brand’s past with a modern twist.

BMX gear appeared in the form of oversized jackets and pants, with padded details that added structure and volume. Hunch-shouldered hoodies created exaggerated silhouettes, while Frankenstein-like suiting combined mismatched fabrics and layers. Lingerie elements were mixed with T-shirts and even wedding dresses, creating unexpected combinations that merged casual and formal wear in a deconstructed manner.