Paris Fashion Week witnessed a striking transformation at Balmain as Olivier Rousteing unveiled a Fall/Winter 2025 collection that embraced ease and fluidity while staying true to the brand’s signature opulence. Known for his maximalist, high-glamour approach, Rousteing introduced a softer, more sensual aesthetic—one that traded bold embellishments for sculptural knitwear and a refined monochromatic palette.
The collection opened with a familiar yet reimagined silhouette: a sweeping hooded sweater, this time styled with a structured leather peplum and relaxed leather trousers. The emphasis on knitwear was evident throughout the lineup, with cocooning sweaters, draped mohair, and wool jersey dresses providing a sense of effortless luxury.
One of the standout themes of the show was the monochrome “groutfit”—an all-gray ensemble that defied its casual connotations through dynamic textures. Pleated skirts, ruched tops, and embossed leathers added depth, while accents of tangerine in plush coats and statement boots injected an unexpected vibrancy.
While this collection leaned into softness, Rousteing ensured it retained the powerful, structured essence of Balmain. Oversized coats, slouchy boots, and exaggerated silhouettes provided a sense of drama, while bold accessories—chunky gold bracelets, sculptural pumps, and talon-inspired earrings—kept the looks firmly grounded in the brand’s DNA.
The signature Balmain edge also emerged through statement animal prints. Zebra motifs, rendered in dazzling beadwork and dramatic silhouettes, delivered a sense of modern glamour. A standout burgundy leather jumpsuit, featuring a shawl collar and hood, nodded to Rousteing’s penchant for theatricality while fitting seamlessly into his new era of wearable luxury.
Backstage, Rousteing described this collection as the beginning of a new chapter for the house. “After 14 years, if I cannot write a new book, then what is the point?” he remarked. The collection, while softer in execution, was undeniably Balmain—proof that luxury is not just about excess, but about knowing when to let the clothes breathe. With Doja Cat seated front row in a custom Balmain gown fresh from her Oscars appearance, the night served as a reminder that Rousteing’s vision continues to evolve. By balancing sculptural knitwear with bold statements, Balmain’s FW25 collection was not just a shift—it was a sophisticated recalibration of power dressing.
