Valentino Haute Couture Show 23

BY Jana Lee

February 17, 2023

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]During Paris Couture Week, the Pont Alexandre III in Paris was transformed into the world’s most exclusive venue for a night: Valentino’s “Le Club Couture”.

Celebrity guests included Kylie Minogue, Sam Smith, Anne Hathaway, Doja Cat, and Charli XCX. Haute Couture meets hedonism is the dress code. Valentino’s latest collection is a riotous display of unabashed self-expression. As they descended the stairs to the River Seine level, influencers paused on the red carpet for photos before entering the dark, grungy space.

The collection delicately straddled two very different worlds: the Couture universe and the club scene hence the show’s location. Piccioli believes the two can be combined. ‘‘Their shared values: mutual gestures of extravagance, the concept of clothes as tools of transformation, crafting a true self, a dichotomous yet dual vocabulary of display and revelation, permeance through life,’’ the House in-show notes explained.[/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=”4081″ img_size=”full” alignment=”center” onclick=”link_image”][vc_column_text]Anok Yai, the first Sudanese model to open a Prada show in 2018 (Naomi Campbell was the only Black model to do so previously), and Adut Akech, who starred in Beyoncé’s visual album Black Is King, were some of the famous names that walked the runway.

Pierpaolo Piccioli has been the sole creative director of Valentino for six years, challenging the label’s classic roots with bold ideas and redefining what haute couture can look like. His vision for the Haute Couture collection for Spring/Summer 2023 was no exception. Valentino’s ‘‘Le Club Couture’’ collection was loud, bright, and sexy—all while being completely stunning.

It was as playful as it was deliberate, with clear design and styling choices made to ensure Piccioli’s vision got noticed. A sequin thong worn over neon green tights; knee-high feather boots; oversized ruffle collars; scandalous cutouts; and sheer fabrics worn over freed nipples. The humorous elements incorporated throughout the collection did not detract from the awe-inspiring craftsmanship that was always present. Beautifully draped coats, feathered garments, and voluminous silhouettes. Highlights included a diaphanous light lavender gown, mermaid-like turquoise mini, and a yves-klein-blue-and-a sequined-pink set complete with floral opera coat. The title Le Club Couture translating as “the energy, the sound, the feel of Couture is proof that Piccioli’s Valentino tenure is still shining brightly. Valentino’s PP Pink trademark was also visible in the display. But this time, with a few exceptions, it was primarily used as a splash of color through various accessories rather than presenting as fully monochrome outfits as it had in the past. Look no farther than the gold high-slit dress with pink shoes or the fur cloak with a bright pink bow.

[/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=”4082″ img_size=”full” alignment=”center” onclick=”link_image”][vc_column_text]There was a similar undercurrent of nightlife cool in the beauty department. Makeup artist Pat McGrath created a mash-up of Disco-ready looks, including Studio 54-inspired draped fuchsia blush, sleek feline wings, deep cherry gloss, and bright brows. Her signature translucent skin was, of course, on display.

 

Photo via Getty Images[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]