The latest collection, designed by Julien Dossena, embodied all the sparkle, glamor and contrast between metallic and matte that you would expect from a faithful interpretation of Rabanne’s DNA and of Julien himself.
Since its inauguration in 1966 with founder Paco Rabanne’s iconic “Manifesto” fashion show, the maison has always stood out for introducing a futuristic aesthetic to public events. This tradition remained alive during the last fashion show, where dozens of influencers, even after the event had ended, still created a traffic jam on Avenue President Wilson half an hour later. Paris Fashion Week remains the ideal setting for influencers, with its combination of historic sites and tree-lined avenues.
Returning to the show itself, Dossena began with a look that was essentially Rabanne in spirit: a real “space age bombshell” in metallic silver adorned with gold chains and pendants, combined with spectacular high-tech gladiator sandals. This futuristic vision was followed by women wearing metallic tunics, shirts and minimalist sheaths, as well as capes decorated with sequins, cropped cocktails with hoods and dhotis. They all looked like they were on their way to a fun party, rather than preparing for battle.
Despite Dossena’s recent interest in mohair styles, which seemed somewhat out of context, especially for a spring-summer 2024 collection presented on a warm autumn day, the constant repetition of sequins, tiny metal plates and pendants left observers yearning for a greater variety of festive outfits.
At the end, Julien Dossena bowed and received an effusive round of applause, leaving a convincing impression on the fashion community by skillfully reviving the maison’s relevance. However, after a decade at the helm of Rabanne, it is inevitable to think that Dossena has largely fulfilled his mission at the maison. This highly talented designer may have exhausted his creative potential within the fashion house.
Lanvin
Founded in the distant year of 1889, the Lanvin fashion house has persisted over the decades, preserving its rich heritage through its fashion, beauty and fragrance collections. Since April last year, following the departure of creative director Bruno Sialelli, Lanvin has been conducting the creation of its new collection in its own studio, a process that will continue until the end of this year, when the new creative director will be unveiled. The aim of this approach is to pay homage to the founder of the famous French maison, Jeanne Lanvin.
At this time, LANVIN is unveiling its 133-year history, drawing inspiration from the art deco aesthetic and mixing silhouettes from the historical archive with a contemporary twist. This journey through time takes the brand back to the glamorous 1920s, where the classic elements that define LANVIN are reimagined in dresses adorned with tulle, hearts on shorts and wide pants with pleats. The collection comprises 25 looks in total, only a dozen of which were presented to the press last Thursday at the brand’s premises in Paris, a beautiful semi-detached house overlooking Parc Monceau.
Ornate, striped uniforms are transformed, taking on a futuristic feel with the addition of latex gloves, while abstract flowers bloom on structured shirts and blazers. The embroidered details evoke the sophisticated elegance associated with LANVIN, resulting in a refined collection full of charming pastel shades.
Chloé
Gabriela Hearst, originally from Uruguay, spent her childhood on her family’s expansive 17,000-acre farm, known as Santa Isabel, in Paysandu. In this bucolic setting, she grew up surrounded by horses, cattle and sheep. In her latest fashion show for the prestigious French maison Chloé, Gabriela paid an emotional tribute to her rural South American heritage. This moment marked a true full circle in her career, and the designer not only brought out a collection inspired by flora (a typical Chloé romantic touch), but also shared pure joy by dancing with the Rio de Janeiro samba school Mangueira.
The show began with a stunning white one-shoulder dress with cascading ruffles that added unexpected texture to Chloé’s distinctive femininity. This unique texture was kept in focus with a dress embellished with netting and floral appliqués. The ranch-style three-piece suits featured gold trim on the collars and sequined belt buckles. A black trench, embroidered in silver, hung over an ethereal white dress, a Chloé signature, and was paired with elegant leather boots. Touches of color appeared in a series of marigold print dresses.
Gabriela Hearst shared her inspiration for the show, explaining: “Six months ago, when I learned that this would be my last show for Chloé, I decided that we should bring in Mangueira and have a real carnival. Paris won’t forget this moment. We dressed the members of the samba school in the colors of their school, fuchsia and green, and they were so happy that they plan to wear them in one of their competitions.”
Despite her relatively short time at Chloé, just three years, Gabriela Hearst has left an indelible mark. Known in the fashion industry for her dedication to sustainability, the 46-year-old designer worked diligently to strengthen the brand’s credibility in this area. In 2021, Chloé became the first major luxury house to achieve B Corp certification, a distinction awarded to companies that demonstrate an unequivocal commitment to promoting positive environmental impacts, going beyond simply generating value for shareholders.
Gabriela Hearst’s farewell to Chloé was not marked by sadness, but by a celebration of her remarkable career. Dressed in a studded bolero and a black leather skirt, she moved and danced to the infectious rhythm of the samba, revealing a side of her personality that the public rarely had the opportunity to witness.
Rick Owens
Rick Owens returned to Paris Fashion Week to present his eagerly awaited Spring/Summer 2024 collection in a setting that could be described as chaotic, shrouded in smoke and with a static soundtrack. This gloomy atmosphere served as a backdrop for Owens’ artistic vision, which highlighted his models as figures of power and resilience, contrasting sharply with the brutalist and melancholic environment. The central inspiration for this collection came from the iconic Icelandic artist, Björk, allowing Owens to express his unique interpretation of everyday life.
Rick Owens dared to create unconventional characters, endowed with a mysterious and even demonic aura, who paraded with blackened eyes, adding an enigmatic touch to the catwalk. With the aim of reinvigorating the essential elements of the closet, Owens introduced a variety of garments that transcended ordinary fashion, giving them a sense of strength, authority and individuality. Using a monochromatic color palette and focusing on creating structured shapes and silhouettes, he extended the proportions of each garment with his characteristic pointed patterns, highlighting sleeves and flares that extended dramatically, creating a contrast with the models’ bare skin and musculature. Through these silhouettes, Rick Owens managed to convey a sense of human resolution.
Although many associate the punk nature of his brand with his dark and nihilistic imagination, Rick Owens surprisingly considers himself an optimist. Although he doesn’t follow any specific religion, he finds fascination and inspiration in the various ways in which our choices and morality are shaped. In his Men Spring/Summer 2024 collection, Owens explores the idea of “joy as a moral obligation”, recognizing that in the midst of the uncertainty that permeates our society today, it is crucial to resist despair and instead seek joy internally. While Owens often tackles poignant narratives relating to global adversity in his designs, this season’s collection takes a more simplified approach, examining the human response to the world’s turbulence with depth and sensitivity.
Isabel Marant
Parisian label Isabel Marant closed the fourth day of Paris Fashion Week with a bang, presenting an extensive showcase at Place Colette that left a strong impression. Upon entering the venue, guests were immediately enveloped in a unique sensory experience, walking over uneven stumps before coming across a white catwalk illuminated by soft blue light. Isabel Marant’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection continued the brand’s tradition of exploring textures in abundance, presenting a total of 55 looks.
Backstage, Isabel Marant and artistic director Kim Bekker shared their new vision of femininity for this collection. Marant described it as “a new energy, more mystical, a little purer.” She stressed that the collection sought to convey a sense of lightness.
Leather ensembles caught the eye, made up of incredibly fitted jackets with undulating seams, combined with microshorts that gave a feeling of lightness to the models’ legs. Flouncy dresses, adorned with geometric patterns and touches of shiny lurex, caught the light in a dazzling way. Another highlight was an ivory shirt, whose skin was visible through the leaf embroidery, paired with denim shorts and boots – a “poetic” expression of lightness, as Marant mentioned.
The brand also adjusted its style by simplifying the layers, making lightness the collection’s most powerful statement. Isabel Marant concluded: “We have our unique way of doing things, which is immediately recognizable, but we are also always adapting this approach to the current silhouette.” This collection was therefore a skillful balance between the brand’s distinctive identity and a contemporary vision of fashion.