The last day of SPFW N56 ends with sensuality, diversity, and nostalgia

BY Pilar Lauria

November 12, 2023

The 56th edition of São Paulo Fashion Week (SPFW) culminated on its final day, leaving a lasting impression on fashion enthusiasts with its array of visionary designs. The grand finale began with a celebration of Lino Villaventura’s 45th anniversary, followed by LED’s 10th-anniversary event, which highlighted diversity. Innovative collections from Lucas Leão, Heloisa Faria, and Gefferson Vila Nova ranged from avant-garde menswear to romantic urban aesthetics and a tropical-inspired high-summer line. Bold Strap concluded the show with “Bold Lesson,” an inclusive and nostalgic nod to the 2000s universe. This article explores the unexpected twists and nostalgic elements of SPFW’s final day, showcasing fashion’s power to transcend boundaries and captivate the imagination.

Lino Villaventura

Courtesy of LINO VILLAVENTURA

The last day began with a tribute to designer Lino Villaventura’s 45th anniversary at Shopping Iguatemi. Presenting over 70 looks for both women and men, created exclusively for the show in just three months, the collection featured eighties elements, short ribbed dresses, and a variety of colored socks and sneakers. The lineup evolved into dramatic, red-carpet-worthy outfits, emphasizing sustainability with materials like linen, technological fabrics, and biodegradable nylon. Men’s attire included vibrant colors and classic black and white, complemented by nylon capes and linen. Sérgio Marrone, Armando Babaioff, and ex-BBB Gabriel Santana walked the Villaventura catwalk.

LED

Courtesy of LED

The shows moved to Mooca with LED’s presentation by political designer Celso Dias. Celebrating its 10th anniversary, LED revisited crochet and gender-neutral clothes, and hand-painted designs. The brand showcased a diverse cast, including transvestite singer Pepita and plus-size model Letticia Munniz. Trans MP Erika Hilton opened and closed the show, starting with shorts, a top, and a blazer, and concluding with a white crochet dress.

Lucas Leão

Courtesy of LUCAS LEAO

Lucas Leão’s collection, Ybyrá, reimagined the male suit, featuring tailoring with embellishments and displaced buttons. Drawing inspiration from Tupi, the collection included pastel blazers, elongated shirts, and macramé garments. The collection was a fashion revolution with a dash of humor.

Heloisa Faria

Courtesy of HELOISA FARIA

Heloisa Faria’s “Tessituras” collection revitalized the legacy of Pilar, Andrea Garcia’s brand. Transforming Pilar’s dresses into new pieces, the collection included intricate knits, pure blue jeans, and lace-adapted wedding dresses. Liza Lian’s live music accompanied a showstopper white dress made from colorful lace scraps.

Gefferson Vila Nova

Courtesy of GEFFERSON VILA NOVA

Gefferson Vila Nova’s “Coração Tropical” collection blended urban and Bahian styles in his men’s high-summer line. The collection featured relaxed suits, front-pocketed pants, and piqué fabric pieces, with cotton as the primary material. The show hinted at a future men’s beachwear line.

Bold Strap

Courtesy of BOLD STRAP

Bold Strap’s “Bold Lesson” collection paid homage to the 2000s, inspired by the transition from high school to university. The collection featured elements of grunge and preppy styles, colorful hair, jeans, slip dresses, and pelvic cut-outs. Plus-size model Letticia Munniz and trans model Sam Porto showcased inclusivity on the runway. The collection was a fusion of grunge, glamour, and nostalgia from the 2000s.