New York Fashion Week Day 1

BY Beatriz Leal

February 9, 2024

See the Highlights of the First Day

New York Fashion Week 2024 has just kicked off this Friday, September 9th. Runways, presentations, and various events are taking place all over Manhattan, opening up the Fall/Winter 2024 ready-to-wear season in the major fashion capitals.

Check out the highlights from the New York Fashion Week day 1 below!

For Fall/Winter 2024, under the creative direction of Peter Do, Helmut Lang introduces a collection titled “Protection vs. Projection,” embodying a fusion of safety and character. From face shields to bulletproof materials, each piece prioritizes defense without compromising style. Innovative textiles, such as silk bubble-wrap with bulletproof reinforcements and padded knitwear akin to astronaut suits, ensure hyper-adaptability and ultra-protection. Even formal wear and footwear are imbued with a sense of vigilance, symbolized by the firemen’s “Safety Orange.”

Peter Do maintains the essence of Helmut Lang’s contemporary persona, blending materials and silhouettes with nods to the brand’s heritage. The collection seamlessly marries beauty and fortitude, reminding wearers that confidence can coexist with protection.

Helmut Lang fall/winter 2024 ready-to-wear
Photo Credit: Go Runway

Helmut Lang fall/winter 2024 ready-to-wear
Photo Credit: Go Runway

Continuing its tradition of hand-printing and bedazzling pieces at its Los Angeles atelier, Libertine draws inspiration from vintage motifs for its Fall/Winter 2024 ready-to-wear collection. Archive lip prints and historic decorative buttons adorn coats and sunglasses, each with a fascinating backstory.

The collection pays homage to larger-than-life personalities like Lord Byron and Peggy Guggenheim, incorporating lines from Byron’s poetry into suits with punk-inspired bondage straps. Large houndstooth patterns and tributes to Emanuel Ungaro make the collection more varied and interesting.

Personal touches abound, with prints featuring the designer himself, friends of the house, and Libertine staff belongings. The show closes with surreal motifs of floating eyes, noses, and lips, emphasizing the brand’s sensory appeal.

Libertine fall/winter 2024 ready-to-wear
Photo Credit: Go Runway

Libertine fall/winter 2024 ready-to-wear
Photo Credit: Go Runway

On New York Fashion Week 2024, “Fall/Winter 2024 culminates our New York City collections. Youthful dreams and naïveté have matured into a romantic toughness shaped by the everyday hustle,” says Phillip Lim about his newest collection.

“The 3.1 way of dressing” is all about memories being revived and blurring the lines between work attire and leisurewear, mirroring the natural fusion often observed on urban streets. As we saw in the presentation, 3.1 Phillip Lim’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection includes a sweatsuit crafted from French terry and cotton twill, as well as a combination of a sergeant’s jacket and cargo pants, offering innovative alternatives to traditional office attire while maintaining versatility and comfort.

3.1 Phillip Lim fall/winter 2024 ready-to-wear
Photo Credit: courtesy of 3.1 Phillip Lim
new york fashion week day 1,
new york fashion week 2024

3.1 Phillip Lim fall/winter 2024 ready-to-wear
Photo Credit: courtesy of 3.1 Phillip Lim

3.1 Phillip Lim fall/winter 2024 ready-to-wear
Photo Credit: courtesy of 3.1 Phillip Lim

In Prabal Gurung’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection, the first model wore a striking red outfit, mixing flowy and structured pieces such as a dress over a turtleneck and pants.

Gurung honored his Nepalese family’s clothing traditions with a standout coat featuring shearling details. Throughout the collection, a band shape was a recurring theme, wrapping around shoulders and appearing as furry trims, representing fragmented memories.

The designs were soft and loose, reminding us of dreams and memories, and connecting back to Gurung’s previous work.

new york fashion week day 1,
new york fashion week 2024

Prabal Gurung fall/winter 2024 ready-to-wear
Photo Credit: Go Runway

new york fashion week day 1,
new york fashion week 2024
Prabal Gurung fall/winter 2024 ready-to-wear
Photo Credit: Go Runway

New York Fashion Week Day 1, Willy Chavarría’s fall collection was initially set to debut through a short film titled “Safe from Harm,” which opened the show against the backdrop of a table adorned with altar candles.

The collection drew inspiration from the opulent style of 1980s British elites, featuring luxurious plaid and houndstooth wools juxtaposed with leather jackets and biker details. Standout pieces included a houndstooth turtleneck shirt paired with matching trousers and a leather track jacket adorned with a gold cross zipper pull. Chavarría’s trademark oversized jackets in soft beige wool were stylishly matched with bow blouses, while models rocked oversized cable knit sweaters for extra style.

The collection also highlighted wearable pieces indicative of Chavarría’s global expansion into wholesale markets, presenting adaptable choices for everyday dressing.

Willy Chavarría fall/winter 2024 ready-to-wear
Photo Credit: Go Runway
new york fashion week day 1,
new york fashion week 2024
new york fashion week day 1,
new york fashion week 2024
Willy Chavarría fall/winter 2024 ready-to-wear
Photo Credit: Go Runway
new york fashion week day 1,
new york fashion week 2024

At New York Fashion Week day 1, Bach Mai’s fascination with bold and vulnerable women inspired his Fall/Winter 2024 ready-to-wear collection, drawing from Catherine Deneuve’s character in “Belle du Jour” and Natalie Portman’s role in “Closer” for themes of descent into depravity and allure. The ’60s shapes and scarf prints echoed Deneuve’s elegance, while Portman’s influence introduced shine and fringe details. Kylie Minogue’s Fever-era style influenced the fringed ribbon tops and folded ribbon pieces, reminiscent of Tom Ford’s Gucci designs.

Despite these diverse inspirations, the collection also marked the brand’s debut of coats, incorporating elements from Mai’s popular bomber jackets to create stylish evening pantsuits. Overall, Mai showcased stunning shine effects and intricate floral details, demonstrating his versatility and attention to detail.

new york fashion week day 1,
new york fashion week 2024
new york fashion week day 1,
new york fashion week 2024

Bach Mai fall/winter 2024 ready-to-wear
Photo Credit: Go Runway

new york fashion week day 1,
new york fashion week 2024
Bach Mai fall/winter 2024 ready-to-wear
Photo Credit: Go Runway
new york fashion week day 1,
new york fashion week 2024

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