Milan Fashion Week: Day 1

BY Beatriz Leal

February 22, 2024

The highlights of the first day of Fashion Week

Milan Fashion Week’s runways kicked off on Wednesday (21st), with Diesel, Alberta Ferretti, and Fendi’s fashion shows standing out as the highlights of the day.

Diesel’s iconic pillars—denim, pop, utility, and artisanal—are boldly reimagined with a sophisticated twist in their Fall/Winter 2024 ready-to-wear collection. From the innovative treatment of materials to the intricate detailing, every aspect exudes newfound elegance. The jersey fabric undergoes a captivating devoré technique, while denim is coated and cracked for a modern edge. Floral dresses offer glimpses of layers beneath, adding depth and intrigue. Faux fur is elevated with a mesh overlay, and tufting adorns various pieces throughout the collection, adding tactile interest.

Capturing the essence of contemporary digital culture, screenshots from the Diesel livestream are artfully printed onto jersey garments. The accessory line introduces new bags—such as the Scrunched D and Trash D—alongside seasonal interpretations of iconic designs like Play, 1DR, and Charm-D. Sunglasses feature built-in lenses and distressed finishes, embodying a fusion of style and functionality. Notably, the D-sruptor watch emerges as the latest addition to the Metamorph line, exemplifying Diesel’s commitment to innovation and evolution in the realm of fashion and accessories.

In reminiscing about his exploration of the Fendi archives, Kim Jones, the Artistic Director of Couture and Womenswear, found himself drawn to the essence of 1984 for the Fall/Winter 2024 ready-to-wear collection. The sketches transported him back to a vibrant era in London’s history, evoking memories of the Blitz Kids and the New Romantics, amidst the backdrop of global influences converging on British subcultures. Jones recognized the fusion of workwear, aristocratic flair, and Japanese style that characterized the period—a time when British fashion asserted its influence on the global stage while embracing international inspirations.

Yet, amidst this cross-cultural exchange, a quintessentially British elegance prevailed, epitomized by an effortless ease and a disregard for societal norms—a sentiment that resonates with the spirit of Roman style. Through his reflections, Jones captures the timeless allure of fashion as a conduit for cultural expression and global connectivity.

Alberta Ferretti’s latest showcase in Milan marks a bold evolution in fashion, expertly blending masculine and feminine elements into a cohesive collection that challenges traditional norms. The show-stopping opener, a slip dress that combines black lace, gray flannel, and a pleated skirt, sets the tone for a line that embraces fluid silhouettes and innovative material pairings. Ferretti’s creative use of masculine fabrics like pinstripes and tweed, adorned with feminine ruffles and beads, introduces a refreshing take on contemporary women’s wear. The collection is vibrant with rich colors like pumpkin, mustard, and puce, seen in striking pantsuits and cozy knits, alongside evening attire that mixes special occasion glamour with everyday sophistication. Ferretti’s designs, from ethereal chiffon gowns to practical tweed suits, showcase a pragmatic yet playful approach, encouraging a personal mix-and-match style. The event, graced by celebrities, highlights Ferretti’s continued influence on fashion, presenting a collection that merges traditional elegance with modern trends.