Milan Fashion Week: Day 2

Max Mara, Prada, MM6 Maison Margiela and Emporio Armani are the highlights of the day

The second day of Milan Fashion Week took place on Thursday (22nd). Beloved brands such as Max Mara, Prada, MM6 Maison Margiela, and Emporio Armani presented their Fall/Winter 2024 ready-to-wear collections throughout the city.

Max Mara’s presentation for Fall/Winter 2024 today draws inspiration from Colette, a woman of letters, music hall performer, and feminist icon of the Belle Époque, as noted by the brand.

The collection is shaped by the gently rounded contours of the 1910s, influencing the creation of coats with innovative structures. Kimono sleeves and voluminous backs, reminiscent of modern bomber jackets, add a contemporary twist to the historical aesthetic. The masculine classics of the writer are reimagined in commanding officer coats, cabans, and power jackets.

“Camisoles and slipdresses provide a seductive counterpoint to Max Mara’s modern urban armor. This season, Max Mara introduces a deep inky navy to mix with jet black and smoky greys,” Max Mara explained on their website.

Flowing pajamas and loose robes in cozy flannel or luxurious midnight blue velvet offer a fresh option for both daytime and evening wear. As night falls, the sparkle of black and blue crystals accentuates their precise lines and shapes, adding a touch of glamour to their elegant designs.

Prada showcased its Fall/Winter 2024 ready-to-wear collection today. The first look was a black dress adorned with numerous bows, followed by variations in baby pink and deep purple, along with additional bow designs on tweed skirts with embroidered silk backs, creating a distinct front-to-back appearance throughout much of the collection.

Alongside bows, Prada and Simons incorporated letterman jackets, mismatched twinsets, and vintage-inspired slips, blending nostalgia with modernity. Mini-belts and old-fashioned gestures contrast with technology, while 1950s couture-inspired dresses add a political undertone.

The use of mini-belts to suspend bags and old-fashioned hand gestures juxtaposes contemporary technology, while the incorporation of 1950s couture-inspired cocktail dresses made from high-performance fabric adds a touch of political undertone.

MM6 Maison Margiela’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection drew inspiration from Martin Margiela’s tenure at Hermès (1997 to 2003), evoking the serene, minimalist elegance of those collections within today’s unconventional salon-like setting.

 The elongated waistcoat/tunic with a plunging neckline paid homage to Margiela’s vareuse blouse for Hermès, embodying a sense of effortless sophistication. Abstract rectangular modules suspended from shoulder pads and sharp shoulder lines transformed into various silhouettes, from tops to ultra-mini dresses and tailored skirt suits, adding a classy yet easy-to-wear aesthetic.

 The rectangular shapes also referenced hotel pillowcases, featuring unexpected motifs printed on sweaters and tops. Overall, MM6 Maison Margiela’s Fall 2024 collection exuded an abstract softness, blending elements of sensuality and unconventional elegance while staying true to the brand’s distinctive codes.

Emporio Armani’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection was inspired by the elegance of the night sky. The collection presented a modern interpretation of the brand’s youthful aesthetic, blending treated nylon trousers with chunky boots and constellation-inspired jackets.

From funnel-neck blouses to faux fur coats, the collection showcased impeccable craftsmanship and attention to detail. Its newest collection incorporated red hues reminiscent of a hazy sunset and faded black fur jackets with sporadic blue accents evoking the Northern Lights. With models gracefully navigating simulated rain with umbrellas in hand, the show also paid homage to nature’s beauty and its influence on fashion.

As the lights dimmed, the grand finale of the Emporio Armani show unfolded with a captivating display—models, either walking solo or in pairs, stepped onto the runway under a delicate flurry of artificial snow. The last 12 looks featured crystal-adorned shirts and blouses paired with elegant black organza skirts or intricately embellished dresses.

Adrian Appiolaza became the creative director of Moschino just three weeks ago. He took on this role by honoring the work of Franco Moschino, the brand’s founder. Appiolaza looked through Moschino’s past designs and chose some of the most famous ones for the fall/winter 2024 ready-to-wear collection.

The Argentinian designer approached his first collection with a wider perspective, bringing back many of Moschino’s well-known styles, like the cloud print and the smiley face. He also included pieces with messages of love and peace.

One standout piece was a sweater dress with a peace sign where the model’s head popped out from the letter “P.” Appiolaza has a knack for unique and authentic designs, focusing on styles like torn-apart tailoring, washed denim, and knits that are either very small or very big – these details are embroidered onto the clothes.

In the GCDS’s fall/winter 2024 collection, “Toys for Adults,” Giuliano Calza ingeniously merges introspection with pop fashion by drawing inspiration from childhood memories. Reflecting on innocent requests made to his traveling father for “something beautiful,” Calza delves into the captivating allure of horror movies and other nostalgic experiences.

His collection reimagines vintage toys into sophisticated fashion statements, such as sleek suits adorned with Hello Kitty details and accessories featuring motifs inspired by the notorious Chucky doll.

The collection seamlessly transitioned from purity to sensuality, starting with an all-white palette reminiscent of childhood innocence before delving into darker hues.

Tom Ford’s fashion show concluded the second day of runways in Milan. Peter Hawkings, now in his second season with Tom Ford, crafts fashion that radiates allure, with a particular emphasis on eveningwear that captures the essence of the spotlight. This season, his goal was to emerge from the shadows of the past (years spent working alongside the brand’s founder) and establish his own unique identity.

His approach began with military-inspired coats and jackets, complemented by a romper adorned with brass buttons, all custom-made for the label. Notably, each fabric featured in the collection was meticulously developed exclusively for this purpose. Hawkings maintains the sexy style of Tom Ford but in a more subdued manner. He continues to include bold pieces such as see-through dresses and catsuits. Last season, he showcased luxurious velvet suits reminiscent of those Ford created at Gucci.

This time, his focus is on three-piece suits for women, featuring large collars, snug vests, and high-waisted pants. Available in gray, striped, and bright purple, these suits are designed to accentuate curves and flow elegantly to the ground.