Paris Fashion Week: Highlights from Dior, Germanier, and Saint Laurent

BY Beatriz Leal

February 27, 2024

Paris Fashion Week has already started, and we are eagerly anticipating every runway show. The Fall/Winter 2024 ready-to-wear season is nearing its end, after which we can summarize all the fashion shows around the world and explore the trends.

Here are the highlights from Tuesday!

For this season, Maria Grazia Chiuri drew inspiration from the 60s, the decade when Miss Dior – the women’s ready-to-wear line at the maison – was launched, and from Gabriella Crespi, an artist emblematic of that era.

“The collection celebrates the shapes and materials that, upon the opening of the Miss Dior boutique in Paris, propelled a new way of dressing that could unite numerous women and make them all feel special. The scarf, beloved by Maria Grazia Chiuri, reemerges as the must-have accessory. In everyday life, at work, or on a journey, the scarf is versatile and compact, offering protection, envelopment, and embellishment as needed,” according to the collection notes.

In fluid silhouettes, key pieces feature double cashmere and gabardine, including mini dresses, trousers, coats, jackets, and above-the-knee skirts. The Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2024 ready-to-wear collection is characterized by a palette of white, orange, pink, and neon green, complemented by tones suited for makeup. The Miss Dior logo stands out as a signature manifesto in blues, reds, and browns, while studs give way to beads, and embroidery makes a bold statement.

Germanier presented its Autumn/Winter 2024 ready-to-wear collection today, in collaboration with the Brazilian artistic project Ponto Firme, led by designer Gustavo Silvestre.

Together, they have explored a creative realm, repurposing discarded materials to craft an imaginative collection. Through the skilled hands of Kevin and Gustavo, beads, plastic, and crochet threads have been transformed into striking dresses that resemble armor, embellished with vibrant spikes, oversized sequins, and rigid fringes.

Named “Les Épineuses,” the collection showcases Germanier’s signature aesthetic, with stiff fringes accentuating dresses and tops, elegantly paired with leggings, evoking a sense of protective armor. Models also took to the runway wearing short beaded dresses, pleated tulle fabrics, and feathers adorning oversized hats and headpieces.

If we could summarize Saint Laurent’s Fall/Winter 2024 ready-to-wear collection in one word, it would be: transparent. Mostly made entirely out of pantyhose fabric, Anthony Vaccarello’s new collection for the maison featured plenty of bow-neck blouses, pencil skirts, and draped knee-length dresses, including a few generously cut caban jackets, drawing inspiration from Saint Laurent’s beatnik coats of 1962.

This season’s collection references Monsieur Saint Laurent’s own experimentation with sheer fabrics in 1966, as well as Marilyn Monroe’s iconic Jean Louis dress worn during JFK’s birthday serenade in 1962.

Vaccarello’s collection blends timeless chic with a subtle critique of modern transparency trends, offering a fresh perspective. Featuring colors from taupe to vermilion, accessorized with patent leather belts, chain-link sandals, lucite bangles, and marabou jackets, it exudes effortless elegance.