Demna is stepping into a new era—one that feels less like spectacle and more like substance. At Balenciaga’s Fall/Winter 2025 show, the designer stripped things back to the core of his aesthetic, presenting a collection that felt like a retrospective of his own creative language. But instead of theatrical gimmicks and viral silhouettes, this season was about introspection, tailoring, and a more grounded approach to fashion’s future.
Set inside a black-curtained maze at Paris’ historic Cour du Dôme des Invalides, the venue was as symbolic as it was functional. The narrow corridors offered every guest a front-row seat—both literally and metaphorically—to the essence of Demna’s craftsmanship. It was a metaphorical journey through his universe, where every twist and turn echoed fashion’s current crossroads: Who is fashion really for? And what do people actually want to wear?
Demna described the collection as a “study of standard clothes”—a refined exploration of the silhouettes and subcultures he’s meticulously crafted over the years. There were echoes of his signature codes: the powerful corporate tailoring, the underground club references, the off-duty streetwear, and touches of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s couture legacy. But this time, it all came with a sense of maturity, almost a quiet confidence that doesn’t need to shout to be heard.
Gone were the exaggerated shoulders and colossal sneakers that once dominated the runway. In their place, we saw sculpted suits, elegant pencil skirts, sheer stockings, and sharply heeled pumps. The coats—narrowed, streamlined, and beautifully cut—felt like the evolution of Demna’s aesthetic, tailored to a more sophisticated consumer. It was a deliberate shift toward timeless elegance, a nod to those who value quality and longevity over fleeting trends.
Of course, Demna didn’t abandon his streetwear roots. The much-anticipated collaboration with Puma brought a sporty energy to the lineup, featuring leather bombers, vintage-inspired tracksuits, fuzzy robes, and a distressed reinterpretation of the Speedcat sneaker. Gold medals swung from the necks of models styled like victorious athletes, injecting a playful, ironic twist to the otherwise minimalist collection.
But beyond the clothes, there was still the socio-political edge Demna is known for. The show’s maze-like structure, the almost eerie quiet before the models emerged, and the absence of a final walk—all served as subtle commentaries on the fashion industry’s current state of flux. “A maze has multiple paths and endings,” Demna said backstage. “Just like fashion today—full of choices, each one shaping where we go next.”
