At Paris Fashion Week, Chanel offered a captivating blend of tradition and transformation with its Fall/Winter 2025 collection. In a season where many maisons are exploring softer silhouettes and unstructured ease, Chanel joined the conversation—on its own terms. The house leaned gently into a bohemian sensibility without ever straying too far from its storied heritage.
The collection, designed by the in-house Fashion Creation Studio, arrived as a transitional chapter for the brand—an elegant bridge between legacy and the future, just ahead of Matthieu Blazy’s highly anticipated debut as creative director. And while the codes of Chanel were very much present—think tweed, pearls, camellias, bows—the execution felt lighter, airier, and delightfully undone in moments.
The show opened with model Vittoria Ceretti in a sharp black tweed mini dress, softened by a flowing layer of sheer tulle—a styling choice that set the tone for the collection’s overall mood. Throughout the runway, structured tailoring was delicately disrupted by chiffon overlays, ruffled edges, and whisper-thin layers that floated as the models walked. Boho-chic met Parisian polish in a way only Chanel could deliver.
As the collection unfolded, silhouettes grew slouchier, with oversized sweater dresses and diaphanous gowns layered in poetic contrasts. The balance between softness and structure was artful—bringing a breath of fresh air to the house’s hallmark elegance.
Accessories played with proportion and whimsy. Chanel’s iconic Flap Bags were reimagined in both micro and oversized forms, while the house’s signature pearls took on a bold new dimension. Some models wore dramatic pearl strands as crossbody pieces, while others carried sculptural bags shaped like single, oversized pearls—one of the more playful twists on tradition.
The runway itself made a statement. Set beneath a colossal steel ribbon installation at the Grand Palais—a symbol of both strength and femininity—the space paid homage to the bow motif so deeply tied to Chanel’s identity. That ribbon theme echoed throughout the collection, seen tied at necklines, embroidered onto blouses, printed across dresses, and even woven into hairstyles. It was an elegant thread that tied each look back to the maison’s heritage, while hinting at where it might go next.
Despite the romantic touches and artistic nods, the show also revealed the limitations of a collection without a singular creative force at the helm. The presentation followed a familiar structure—tweed ensembles, print dresses, knitwear, evening looks—executed with finesse but missing the spark of bold storytelling. Lagerfeld’s irreverent edge and theatrical wit still linger in memory, leaving an absence that is hard to ignore.
Still, this collection offered more than a placeholder. It was a love letter to Chanel’s past, a reflection of its enduring codes, and a gentle nudge toward its future. The house has always been about dualities—masculine and feminine, soft and structured, tradition and innovation. Fall/Winter 2025 embraced that spirit with a quieter voice but a clear intention. As Matthieu Blazy prepares to step into the role, all eyes are on the next chapter. But if this collection is any indication, Chanel is ready to be unraveled and reinterpreted—stitched together again with fresh vision and fearless imagination.
