Dario Mittmann Unveils “GOLEM” at SPFW 59: A Conversation Between Tradition, Technology, and Humanity

April 8, 2025
Photo Credit: Thaina Bento

On the evening of April 8th, designer Dario Mittmann took to the runway at the 59th São Paulo Fashion Week with his collection GOLEM: A Transhumanist Odyssey, solidifying his place among the rising stars of Brazilian independent fashion. Known for blending pop culture with both Eastern and Western influences, Mittmann once again demonstrated his mastery in crafting powerful and thought-provoking visual narratives.

GOLEM marks a pivotal moment in Mittmann’s career. Across 27 looks, he seamlessly merges traditional craftsmanship with cutting-edge technologies to explore the current human condition, where the boundaries between humanity and artificial intelligence continue to blur. The show offered a critical yet poetic lens on how technology is reshaping life, questioning ethical boundaries and unforeseen consequences.

Drawing inspiration from the mythological golem—a creature fashioned from clay and animated through mystical means—Mittmann uses it as a metaphor for AI: both are creations designed to serve but possess the potential to outgrow their creators’ control. By weaving transhumanist ideas into his work, Mittmann invites discussions on human enhancement through technology and the quest for immortality.

Visually, GOLEM pushes creative boundaries. The designer juxtaposes organic elements with the synthetic, featuring garments that mimic human skin layered with 3D-printed structures. Handcrafted elements like crochet—developed in collaboration with Poliana Brilhante—and hand-painted graffiti coexist alongside futuristic textures and bold detailing. A collaboration with Ludmilla Obrigon, known for her “body horror” creations, adds a raw, visceral layer to the collection.

The color palette moves away from the vibrant tones of previous seasons, embracing a more dystopian mood: blacks, greys, beiges, and silvers dominate, punctuated by flashes of burnt orange and deep wine. Mittmann incorporates elements of brutalism and “pervert winter” (dark sensuality) aesthetics, crafting voluminous silhouettes balanced with Y2K-inspired touches such as low-rise pants, fitted baby tees, and daring bodysuits, paired with strong, structured shoulders.

One of the show’s standout moments featured actress Deborah Secco, who embodied a robotic figure wearing a rubber armor piece finished with automotive paint—a striking creation symbolizing the fusion of emotion and technology. The armor included an innovative mechanism that simulated black tears, symbolizing an artificial being’s awakening to self-awareness.

Mittmann’s commitment to innovation also shines through his material partnerships. Denim, a key fabric for the collection, is reimagined with support from Levi’s® and Santista. Sustainable textiles from HINT and eco-friendly crochet yarns from Círculo further reinforce his dedication to circular fashion and environmentally responsible practices.

Adding an unexpected twist, six looks from the collection stemmed from a collaboration with Universal Studios, linking Mittmann’s signature aesthetic to the Minions franchise ahead of its next film, slated for 2026.

Notably, despite the collection’s technological themes, the creative process did not involve any use of artificial intelligence. Instead, Mittmann champions human ingenuity and craftsmanship under the motto “AI can’t copy,” celebrating the irreplaceable value of manual artistry. With GOLEM, Dario Mittmann not only cements his reputation for building immersive visual worlds but also invites audiences to contemplate the future of humanity—where tradition and innovation intersect, and the natural and artificial must learn too.

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