In the heart of Paris, at the Jardin des Tuileries, Christian Dior presented a mesmerizing Fall/Winter 2025 collection that blurred the lines between history, fashion, and literature. As a model gracefully swung before an eager audience and then seemingly disappeared, a narrator’s voice filled the air with the words: “Once upon a time.” Thus began a dramatic five-act spectacle that explored the house’s storied past, reflecting on the transformative nature of clothing and its deep-rooted connection to self-expression.
For this season, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’s creative director since 2016, drew inspiration from Virginia Woolf’s Orlando, a novel renowned for its gender-fluid protagonist who journeys through centuries, experiencing life from both masculine and feminine perspectives. This concept of metamorphosis became the foundation of the collection, which seamlessly merged historical silhouettes with modern interpretations, honoring the evolution of fashion as a means of identity and storytelling.
Opening the show was Dior’s timeless white shirt, reimagined once again—this time as a homage to both the novel’s themes and the legacy of former Dior creative director Gianfranco Ferré. From there, the collection unfolded like a rich tapestry of historical references: voluminous crinolines, structured frock coats, and breeches evocative of past centuries, reworked with contemporary sensibilities. Lace-trimmed lingerie-inspired pieces balanced the collection’s sharp tailoring, reinforcing the contrast between strength and fragility—an aesthetic that has become synonymous with Chiuri’s tenure.
Enhancing the collection’s dramatic storytelling was an equally theatrical set, orchestrated by acclaimed American director Robert Wilson. The runway was transformed into a surreal landscape, complete with hovering meteorites, jagged icebergs, and a soaring prehistoric bird—imagery that symbolized transformation, resilience, and the cyclical nature of fashion. As the models walked through shifting scenery, the show became a living representation of Orlando’s themes of fluidity and timelessness.
The final act saw models reappear in pairs, pausing as feathers rained from above—a poetic farewell that left the audience captivated. With rumors swirling about Chiuri’s possible departure from Dior, the presentation carried an air of finality, as if marking the end of an era while celebrating the designer’s lasting impact on the house.
While the show’s literary influence was undeniable, the garments themselves were just as rich in historical and sartorial references. Sharp, tailored jackets and utilitarian outerwear juxtaposed delicate lace blouses and corseted dresses, demonstrating the fluidity between traditionally masculine and feminine styles. Cantilevered hiplines, reminiscent of Dior’s La Cigale dress from 1952, added an architectural element to the designs, while nods to past creative directors were woven throughout.
Ferré’s signature crisp white blouses reappeared in a modernized form, while John Galliano’s extravagant details—such as ermine-style trims and the iconic J’Adore Dior T-shirts—were reinterpreted for today’s audience. Even the 1990s Lady Dior bag received a transformation, reimagined as an oversized tote.
A particularly striking feature of the collection was the play on corsetry. Instead of adhering to rigid historical structures, Chiuri introduced corset-inspired details that could be adjusted or detached, offering wearers the ability to customize their silhouettes. This interplay between control and fluidity mirrored the overarching theme of Orlando—a celebration of identity that refuses to be confined by time or convention.
Since stepping into the role of creative director nearly a decade ago, Chiuri has consistently used Dior’s platform to amplify female voices and narratives. From sending a We Should All Be Feminists T-shirt down her first runway to incorporating the work of female artists into her collections, her vision has been one of empowerment and intellectual engagement.
By choosing Orlando as the guiding inspiration for her Fall/Winter 2025 collection, Chiuri reaffirmed her commitment to exploring the intersection of fashion, feminism, and history. Woolf’s concept of “frock consciousness”—the idea that clothing shapes not just appearance but also identity—was deeply embedded in the collection’s designs.
With Paris Fashion Week abuzz with speculation about Chiuri’s future at Dior, this collection felt like both a powerful statement and a potential farewell. While no official confirmation has been made, the designer still has major shows ahead, including the Pre-Fall 2025 showcase in Kyoto and the Resort 2026 collection in Rome.
Regardless of what the future holds, Chiuri’s ability to weave history, literature, and feminism into Dior’s DNA has left an indelible mark. Whether this collection marks the closing chapter of her tenure or just another evolution in the house’s story, it stands as a testament to fashion’s ability to transcend time, challenge conventions, and celebrate identity in all its forms.
