Presenting Dior’s momentous show at Mumbai’s Gateway of India
On Thursday, over 800 guests gathered in Mumbai as Dior presented a historic runway show, paying homage to both India’s rich history of producing European high fashion and the rising influence of its wealthy consumers.
The French label unveiled its Pre-Fall 2023 collection in front of a star-studded audience that included Bollywood stars Rekha, Sonam Kapoor, and Anushka Sharma, as well as models Cara Delevingne and Maisie Williams, against the famous Gateway of India monument. The setting served as a clear inspiration for the garments, which incorporated Madras check and Benarasi brocade fabrics, mirror work, tie-dye accents, Nehru collars, and kurta tailoring. The runway itself was decorated with marigolds and beautiful diya lamps. A luxury house has never staged a presentation of this size and scope in India. In a logistical feat, ambassadors, clients, VIPs, and media from India and around the world arrived and were seated in front of the stone gateway’s towering arches and minarets in the Gujarati style. Maria Grazia Chiuri, the creative director of Dior, purposefully chose pre-fall to highlight India’s artisans, lifting the lid on craftsmanship long supporting the highly embellished ready-to-wear and exquisite couture creations of fashion houses, but rarely recognized so openly.
The runway was lined with traditional Indian flower patterns and echoed with fusion beats from live musicians. The collection included sari-inspired skirts, silk dresses, and evening coats that referred to conventional Indian designs. The show began with a variety of neutral colors, gently changed to forest green, and then burst into a riot of vibrant hues and patterns. Most of the models had pearl necklaces around their necks the entire time. The collection comprised designs, fabrics, and styles that paid homage to the host country’s rich tradition and craftsmanship, with India’s renowned embroidery playing a major part. The presentation, which was enormous and featured 99 different styles, was special since many of the looks were developed in conjunction with the color scheme, motifs, mirror work, sequins, and crafts.43 international models, 33 Indian models with international backgrounds, and 23 Indian models were among the carefully curated list of models. Indian artistry and craftsmanship took center stage in creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri’s collection as the runway was bordered with traditional Indian floral decorations and echoed to the sounds of live musicians playing fusion music.
In a statement on Instagram, Chiuri said that she wanted to “celebrate and showcase the incredible knowledge India offers to the international world of fashion in the field of embroidery, the mastery of the artisans who continue to practice this craft, and the commitment of Chanakya’s founders to preserving India’s history and culture, portrayed by each embroidery technique.”
Through the Mumbai-based atelier Chanakya, which collaborates with craftsmen and underprivileged women, Dior has a long-standing relationship with India.
The presentation renewed attention on the high-end fashion sector in India, where renowned Western design houses like Pierre Cardin, Yves Saint Laurent, and Valentino had previously shown their collections.
The “big four” fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan, and Paris are where luxury brands typically present their Spring-Summer and Fall-Winter collections, but they frequently look elsewhere to promote their Pre-Fall and Cruise lines. Also, Mumbai was chosen by Dior at a time when India’s luxury market is on the upswing. Indian consumers have grown to be a significant force in the fashion sector. From 2019 and 2022, the country’s disposable income is expected to increase by more than 24%.