Haider Ackermann’s debut as creative director at Tom Ford has ushered in a refined new vision for the brand. With his Fall/Winter 2025 collection, he strikes a balance between the label’s signature sophistication and his own poetic approach to design. The result? A collection that exudes confidence, modernity, and sensuality without relying on overt seduction.
Following Peter Hawkings’ tenure, Ackermann steps into the role with a fresh perspective, reshaping Tom Ford’s identity while honoring its legacy. Known for his impeccable tailoring and keen eye for color, he offers a more nuanced interpretation of the brand’s signature allure. His take veers away from the high-shine decadence of Ford’s past in favor of something more restrained yet equally magnetic.
Rather than referencing Ford’s defining work at Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, Ackermann leans into a contemporary aesthetic that emphasizes subtle seduction. The collection upholds the house’s reputation for powerful tailoring and statement eveningwear, yet each piece feels undeniably new—sleek, elegant, and undeniably confident.
The show opened with impeccably tailored daywear, where leather took center stage, reinforcing the brand’s polished edge. A monochrome palette of black and white created a strong foundation, punctuated by striking accents of deep red. As the collection transitioned into eveningwear, Ackermann’s expertise in color came to life.
Unexpected shades—vivid yellow, cool ice blue, and soft lilac—added an air of vibrancy reminiscent of iconic stage looks from music legends. Tom Ford’s legacy is deeply tied to provocative fashion, yet Ackermann chooses a different path. Rejecting the label of “sexy” in favor of a more sophisticated sensuality, he crafts silhouettes that reveal without overexposing. Cutaway dresses, sheer layers, and slinky gowns play with the idea of intimacy, but their impeccable construction keeps them firmly in the realm of elegance.
Despite downplaying the concept of glamour, Ackermann’s collection radiated it. Satin tuxedos, fluid mesh gowns, and precisely draped eveningwear ensured the show carried the essence of luxury without excess.
Held in Paris, the show drew an elite crowd eager to witness this pivotal moment for Tom Ford. Ackermann teased his debut with a striking black-and-white self-portrait ahead of the presentation, a nod to the bold imagery that once defined the brand. On the runway, models walked with a deliberate slowness, allowing each look to fully resonate. The pacing underscored the collection’s understated confidence—proof that allure doesn’t have to shout to be heard.
With his first collection, Ackermann has set the tone for a new era at Tom Ford. He respects the house’s foundations while infusing his own artistic sensibility, crafting a vision of modern luxury that is as sophisticated as it is seductive. This debut signals more than just a shift in creative direction—it marks the beginning of a bold reinvention. As guests departed, there was an undeniable sense of anticipation. The brand has entered a new phase, one where sensuality reigns over excess, and Haider Ackermann is leading the way.
