Jean Paul Gaultier, Simone Rocha, Viktor & Rolf, and Valentino Elevate Couture

BY Beatriz Leal

January 25, 2024

This Wednesday (24), the haute couture collections for the Spring/Summer 2024 season by Jean Paul Gaultier, Viktor & Rolf, and Valentino left us in awe. Gaultier welcomed Simone Rocha for a collaboration, Viktor & Rolf’s distinctive scissors graced the runway, and Valentino made a triumphant return to the official calendar.

Jean Paul Gaultier invited Simone Rocha as a guest designer for his namesake brand’s Spring/Summer 2024 haute couture collection. The runway revealed a blend of unconventional styles, featuring thorn-shaped elements in the designs.

Drawing from Gaultier’s iconic trademarks, such as tattoo prints, corsets, and sailor themes, Rocha integrated these with her own brand’s nostalgic, homespun femininity.

The Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 2024 haute couture collection showcased not only Simone Rocha’s collaboration but also featured backless ballgowns, intricate tulle pieces, and dramatically silhouetted dresses. These were embellished with bows, pearls, and flowers, hallmarks of her label. Accessories inspired by sailors, lingerie as outerwear, and Rocha’s refined take on Gaultier’s famed cone bra culminated in a diverse and remarkable haute couture display.

Jean Paul Gaultier spring/summer 2024 haute couture
Photo credit: Estrop/Getty Images

Jean Paul Gaultier spring/summer 2024 haute couture
Photo credit: Estrop/Getty Images

“Scissorhands” is the title of Viktor & Rolf’s Spring/Summer 2024 haute couture collection, presented this Wednesday in Paris. Known for their penchant for exploring contradictions and paradoxes, the designers did not disappoint with this collection. As they explained, it embodied contrasts such as “polished versus raw, studied versus improvised, serious versus funny.”

The collection was organized into seven groups, each featuring four looks. Dominated by black and nude beige, the runway showcased a unique approach. “The first look in each group—a flawless couture outfit, meticulously hand-finished—acts as a blueprint and starting point for three consecutive iterations of the same design. Each iteration explores the creative (im)possibilities offered by a pair of tailor’s scissors, spontaneously used for experimental and decorative cutting,” Viktor & Rolf stated.

Viktor & Rolf spring/summer 2024 haute couture
Photo credit: courtesy of Viktor & Rolf

Valentino has triumphantly returned to the official calendar! This evening, under the guidance of Pierpaolo Piccioli, the label unveiled its Spring/Summer 2024 haute couture collection. With the 1950s and ’60s, the golden era of couture, being revitalized in pop culture through television series like “Cristóbal Balenciaga” and “The New Look,” the timing couldn’t be better.

“These series contribute to an understanding of the couture world, which is often misunderstood, especially the real distinction between ready-to-wear and couture,” the creative director remarked.

The Spring/Summer 2024 haute couture collection from Valentino was not only about breathtaking red carpet outfits but also ventured into a playful day wardrobe. It introduced unconventional shapes and colors, with oversized jackets, palazzo pants, scooped vests, fishtail skirts, and duster coats making appearances in distinctive shades like chartreuse, oxblood, lime, putty, mustard, and sage.

Valentino  spring/summer 2024 haute couture
Photo credit: Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Valentino  spring/summer 2024 haute couture
Photo credit: Giovanni Giannoni/WWD