Lucas Leão’s “Coração Suburbano” Collection: A Celebration of Rio’s Culture and Tailoring Craftsmanship at SPFW N58

BY Julia Miranda

October 19, 2024

Paying Tribute to Tradition, Creativity, and the Suburban Soul

At São Paulo Fashion Week N58, designer Lucas Leão from Rio de Janeiro unveiled his collection “Coração Suburbano,” an evocative tribute to his upbringing in Rio’s North Zone and his family’s long-standing tailoring legacy. This collection is more than a fashion statement—it’s an exploration of cultural heritage blended with modern fashion innovation.

“Coração Suburbano” serves as a personal homage to Leão’s childhood memories and the vibrant energy of Rio’s suburban life. Drawing from the rich cultural tapestry of the North Zone, Leão integrates iconic local elements into his designs. One such inspiration is the extravagant bate-bola costumes from Rio’s carnival, which are reimagined through bold, fashion-forward designs. Another influence comes from the lavish bridal gowns of São Cristóvão’s shops, known for their elaborate craftsmanship. Leão skillfully merges these cultural symbols with contemporary tailoring, presenting a collection that honors the past while embracing the future.

Leão’s expertise in tailoring is a central theme throughout the collection, though he approaches the craft with a fresh, innovative lens. Influenced by his family’s history in menswear, Leão introduces a modern twist to classic designs. The collection features sharp blazers with exaggerated shoulders and unique cutouts, striking a balance between tradition and avant-garde design. Models showcased confidence in wide-legged trousers and structured shorts, highlighting Leão’s attention to fit and form.

Courtesy of SPFW

Each garment in the collection reflects Leão’s commitment to creative experimentation. Shirts are adorned with romantic ribbons instead of buttons, while oversized cuffs add a whimsical touch. His meticulous craftsmanship is evident in pieces like knit polos and handmade clochard pants, further elevating the artistic quality of the collection.

A central motif in the collection is the bate-bola, a carnival figure deeply rooted in Leão’s childhood. These carnival characters, known for their richly embroidered outfits, inspired many of the collection’s dramatic elements. Handmade masks by ceramist Nathan Braga added to the theatrical flair, enhancing the carnival atmosphere and celebrating Rio’s cultural heritage.

The influence of bridal fashion is also prominent, reflecting Leão’s experience working in São Cristóvão, an area renowned for its bridal shops. Gowns featuring thousands of hand-sewn floral appliqués stood out in the collection, blending traditional bridal fantasy with contemporary fashion design. These pieces capture the wonder and enchantment Leão experienced growing up around these ateliers, symbolizing a blend of femininity, elegance, and imaginative flair.

Lucas Leão has firmly established himself as a leading voice in Brazilian fashion with “Coração Suburbano.” His ability to seamlessly combine personal history with cutting-edge design sets him apart, and his dedication to craftsmanship is clear throughout the collection. This showcase not only highlights his technical abilities but also his talent for storytelling through clothing.

The success of this collection is also attributed to Rapha Tito, the executive director, whose leadership and vision helped bring the project to life. The collaboration between Leão and Tito reflects a deep synergy, where tradition, innovation, and partnership converge to create a forward-thinking approach to fashion.

In “Coração Suburbano,” Lucas Leão presents more than just garments—he delivers a narrative filled with cultural depth, history, and craftsmanship. The result is a collection that celebrates Rio’s suburban life and redefines modern tailoring with a distinct, contemporary edge.