Nicolas Ghesquière designed a collection for Louis Vuitton last season based on enormous proportions. Inspired by a sculpture that James Chinlund, a Hollywood production designer and longstanding friend and collaborator, French artist Philippe Parreno made to support an enthralling set. The sculpture was tall and foreign. The largest zippers ever produced for the house and extra-large straps dangling from athletic vests were available. Using “tough” and “pretty threatening” designs, he aimed to rewrite the rules of femininity with this collection.
Ghesquière once again worked with his last season’s coworkers for fall/winter 2023. At the ballroom of Musée d’Orsay, Parreno created an immersive sensory experience where sound and light dance together in homage to Paris and France. The show opened with a question, what is French style? The flickering lights and the mingling of the sounds of passing trains and planes helped to create the atmosphere. The runway was bordered with matte black geometric patterns, precisely reflecting the intricate details of the artistic clothing. This collection intended to use structure to provide aesthetic interest. Therefore novel curves, lines, and arrangements were used on conventional fall staples. The polished, stylish, sensuous, and timeless qualities of French womenswear were subtly underlined in the collection.
Sculptural dresses came layered over chunky tops, long, tailored coats, and red leather pants blended to create a new vision of creative director Nicolas Ghesquière’s twisted take on all things French. Chunky, pleated blazers were belted and layered over dynamic, textural dresses. Pinstripes were blown up to proportions and positioned on balloon-like trousers and jackets. Close examination of the details revealed a significant subversion of the traditional conservatism with deep roots in French fashion; yet, compared to Ghesquière’s previous Louis Vuitton shows, this one more strongly emphasized the idea of relaxed luxury over aristocratic maximalism.
For a chic Judy Jetson vibe, classic sheath midi dresses featured tube sleeves, triangular and circular bib-like details, and exaggerated sweetheart shapes (especially when paired with cool, wrap-around light-up shades). The A-line, fit-and-flare dresses with pointed, pyramid-shaped skirts struck the same futuristic note. Block-leather sleeves, shoulders, and pockets were added to large sherpa bombers and lapel-free jackets in the reinvented outerwear collection (not to mention the occasional coordinating fuzzy Bermuda shorts for an ultra-wintery take on the short suit). Keeping with the modern art meets Parisian street style concept, cool motorcycle jackets had the same geometric design as the catwalk backdrop. Despite all the highly technological embellishments and fabrications, there was still a definite air of ‘Je ne sais quoi. The styling was simple enough to understand: the visual impacts of knee-length shorts with lavishly decorated white button-down shirts, coats that resembled a cross between a tuxedo and kimono, and coats with dazzling lapels that shone in the dimly illuminated museum. The long scarves, accessorized with various brooches and worn with little sweater tank shirts, leggings, and boots, referenced certain bohemian French-style heroes.
Accessories were clearly highlighted in this collection. Voluminous pleated blazers, dresses, trench coats, and comfortable knit sweaters were given structure by long, thin waist belts, which are expected to be the hot style this year. Meanwhile, micro-mini sweater dresses and vest suits were topped with extraordinarily long crocheted scarves.
The Louis Vuitton runway presentations are the apex of celebrity culture during fashion month every season, and this one was no exception. Zendaya, the brand’s newest ambassador, the Haim girls, actress, model, and Squid Game star Jung Ho-Yeon attended the show. Pharrell Williams, who was just named the house’s creative head of menswear, closed the event.