“I can buy myself flowers,” When designing the exquisite floral embellishments on the gowns we saw on the catwalk in the Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2023 presentation, Miuccia Prada may have been inspired by Miley Cyrus’ most recent single.While we can’t be certain, the fashion show that debuted the day before International Women’s Day was an ode to modern women and female independence while still being open to all genders that dress femininely.
Miu Miu made a great thing out of collaborating with Geumhyung Jeong, a South Korean choreographer and performance artist known for manipulating mechanical items and her edgy, sensual staging, for Tuesday’s runway presentation. Yet, the industrial-style set at Palais d’Iéna did not precisely put the artist’s work front and center; instead, it just featured a few TV monitors hanging over the runway with a looping video of what appeared to be Jeong’s hands touching and caressing button-down shirts and other clothing. Miu Miu’s young, always-connected fashion tribe is undoubtedly highly skilled in adding a techno-intimacy air. What was present was an increase in wear from daily life along the lines of what was presented in Milan but with a gender-fluid approach.
Miuccia decided to forgo minimal clothing (partially) and choose something even shorter for this collection, despite the brand’s recent reputation for the virality of its micro skirts and tops.
The arrival of the micro shorts and panties, styled with brightly colored tights, established a new fashion trend and demonstrated that even though the last few months of the year in the northern hemisphere are still likely to be cold, there is no reason to hide your legs and be ashamed of them. This season, sheerness was a recurring element in the bare-all category Miu Miu was following; over half of the 65 looks had some sort of transparency. First, there were feathery light knee-length skirts constructed from what appeared to be stocking-like material and see-through halter dresses with lovely floral adornments. The bulk of these provocative costumes featured bright tights and undergarments, with the well-known Miu Miu emblem showing through the clothing.Prada continues experimenting with lingerie dressing with exquisite sheer mesh dresses, cardigans with 3D crystal flower embroidery and sheer polka dot skirts worn with cardigans tucked into the tights underneath. Seeing the leggings, sneakers, hoodies, and powerful outerwear designs, which played to the reality most people are still living in, even if designers have exhibited a lot of sophisticated suiting this month, made me think of being half in the workplace and partly out. The presentation focused on themes of independence, self-awareness, and pride; it also took a particular—and, as always, ironic—stance towards fashion against a glossy industry at all costs, potentially overlooking the practical aspect of clothing and the emancipatory nature of wearing them. Above all, the untidy hair and casual carrying of house keys as if the models had just returned from a party, a long day at work, or a late-night hookup sent a statement that this collection is created by and for women. However, you choose to define them.
Accessories, a foundational segment for the fashion company, received a lot of attention here. Some of the brand’s Matelassé shoulder bags with leather key straps were displayed. There were kitten heels with three sleek straps or a tiny bow, and comfortable loafers with two silver buckles. The fashion show saw Mia Goth, Emma Corrin, Ethen Cain. Zaya Wade, 15, made her runway debut as her famous parents, Gabrielle Union, and Dwyane Wade sat in the front row.