Paris Fashion Week: Chloé, Givenchy and Schiaparelli

See the runway highlights from this Thursday

This Thursday (29) was a significant day for fashion enthusiasts, especially for Chloé lovers. Chemena Kamali presented her first collection as the creative director of the French maison, while Givenchy remains without an artistic director, with collections being designed by the studio (and there is no problem with that). At Schiaparelli, we saw a perfect blend of Elsa Schiaparelli’s iconic motifs with Daniel Roseberry’s signature American touches. See the highlights!

Recently, we have observed many men assuming the role of creative director at luxury brands—Chemena Kamali, at Chloé, is an exception. The designer feels at home: after starting as an intern at the brand over 20 years ago and working there for two lengthy periods, it was her time to take the lead at Chloé—her ultimate goal.

Chemena’s vision harks back to the 1970s, when the brand focused on expressing women’s freedom, also a reference point for Phoebe Philo. Founded in the 1950s by Gaby Aghion, Chloé has always been supportive of active women.

Kamali’s debut at the Fall/Winter 2024 ready-to-wear collection features flowing dresses, long boots, ruffled shirts, and a soft palette. Chemena’s Chloé embodies effortless femininity, embracing individuality over societal expectations.

Since Matthew Williams left Givenchy back in December, we still haven’t heard a new name for the creative director position (hopefully, it will be a woman). The maison’s Fall/Winter 2024 ready-to-wear runway began with a promising cocktail dress adorned with embroidered silver beads, showcasing the house’s couture craftsmanship.

The rest of the collection showcased elegant tailored suits and evening dresses, featuring fabric-covered buttons and subtle details like pinkie rings. Some dresses also featured draped waistlines reminiscent of the founder’s era. The coats adhered to Givenchy’s classic style, with all eyes on the modern double-breasted trench coat.

“Esprit de Schiap” (Schiap’s spirit) is the name of Schiaparelli’s Fall/Winter 2024 ready-to-wear collection. Schiaparelli’s new pieces offer a diverse wardrobe featuring various blazer styles, tailored slacks, and mix-and-match separates suitable for everyday wear.

Alongside these essentials are striking evening ensembles, blending Elsa Schiaparelli’s iconic motifs, such as anatomy-inspired designs, measuring tape patterns, and keyhole elements, with Daniel Roseberry’s signature American touches.

From fringe accents and braided hair-like ties to bold buckles and even denim elements, these pieces showcase a fusion of classic Schiaparelli aesthetics with modern American influences, creating a unique and captivating collection.

“But what might really define our collections are our accessories, where the esprit de Schiap makes its strongest case yet. We ask ourselves two questions when designing our accessories: First, is it a piece she can only find at Schiaparelli? And second, will someone cross a room and ask her, ‘Excuse me, where is your [necklace/bag/shoe] from, and where can I get one?'” says the creative director.