Loewe
In the Loewe’s SS24 fashion show, we saw an intriguing fusion between normcore aesthetics, coastal grandma and quiet luxury, resulting in a collection that raised the classic dress codes to a new level, distorting them in a surprising way. The event was attended by celebrities such as Kris Jenner, Troye Sivan, Charli XCX, Griffin, Kit Connor and Chinese actress Yang Mi, who recently became LOEWE’s Global Ambassador, turning a Parisian castle into the epicenter of fashion.
Jonathan Anderson, the designer behind the collection, shared his reflection after the show, highlighting the importance of challenging fashion expectations. He expressed his desire to disturb the conventional look with unexpected elements.
The collection presented a remarkable duality, with fluid skirts contrasting with knits and knits that gave a sense of restraint to the models. Anderson revisited popular designs among fans, incorporating men’s pieces into heavy mesh shirts and sweaters, creating extremely high- waisted pants and playing with body proportions.
In addition to revisiting past creations, Anderson introduced a new silhouette, highlighting a square top combined with fluid backgrounds, giving a literally unusual aesthetic.
LOEWE demonstrated its ability to transform ordinary pieces into spectacular ones, as evidenced by the leather shorts fixed with sewing needles crafted in gold metal and by the tops adorned with crystal-encrusted flowers, which united in a sculptural way. The blazers presented a perfect shoulder-length ratio, creating a dramatic silhouette, an element that was also present in the impressive knits of the collection.
At the heart of this collection is the reflection on the journey of clothing in our lives, something universally identifiable. Anderson highlights the authenticity of this approach to fashion, which has been a constant in his career at Loewe. “When you look at the brand since I started, I feel that there is an authenticity in this journey. In some years you feel crazy and in others, you feel surreal and some you want a high waist, and sometimes you get it wrong and in others, you get it right.”
Issey Miyake
Video Credits: IG Reproduction
In 1971, the talented Japanese designer Issey Miyake established his homonymous brand, leaving a remarkable legacy that continues to shine, despite his passage last year. Currently, the leadership of the house is in the hands of Satoshi Kondo, who managed to create a zen experience on the catwalk, relaxing viewers from the moment they enter, with sounds of birds meticulously created by local artists.
The SS24 collection brought to mind Miyake’s iconic 1998 Spring/Summer line, where models were wrapped in “armored” dresses, covering every inch of the body. Kondo’s modern vision was manifested in sets that highlighted the human form, before exploring unconventional suits, with asymmetrical waists that expanded on the wrists.
The sunset illuminated the gradient dresses, which shone under the spotlight, while the voluminous blazers featured meticulously elaborate layered structures. The brand’s characteristic pleated fabrics further elevated the style, incorporated into dresses with shawls that perfectly complemented the twisted tops and the hat collection. It is worth noting that this season marked the debut of the brand’s first collaboration with New Balance on the catwalk.
Issey Miyake’s collection continues to create its own kingdom, merging elements of fantasy and reality in an impeccable presentation that is designed as true sculptures in the form of fashion.
Giambattista Valli
On the day of his show, Anna Wintour presented Giambattista Valli with the prestigious insignia of the Chevalier de l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres in an exciting ceremony held at the Musée National Picasso-Paris. Deeply touched, he shared his gratitude, stating: “I have already felt blessed by the République Française because it is thanks to France that I have become who I am. But that was a surprise to me. It’s another dream come true. It means everything to me.” For Valli, a Roman who adopted Paris as his home, this honor coincided harmoniously with a collection that celebrated the history of cultural exchange.
At the heart of his ultra-feminine silhouettes, Giambattista Valli’s work has always been based on the philosophy of expanding horizons. This season, he plunged into the 18th and 19th century tradition of the Grand Tours, using it as a historical starting point for his fashion narrative. He explained: “It was a period when young people, about to enter adulthood, left on a sabbatical journey, obtaining cultural experiences while passing through Florence, Rome, Naples, Taormina and Athens, culminating in Istanbul.”
Like the young travelers of the original Grand Tour, Valli imagined that these explorers of the past would fill their bags with memories of each place they visited. “At that time, these memories were taken as simple souvenirs, but today, they are considered works of art,” Valli said, pointing to a moodboard full of images of micro mosaics, Roman frescoes, volcanic cameo jewels, marble statuettes and Turkish floral patterns. “All these Roman influences are also part of my own culture,” he said.
Valli skillfully translated these Grand Tour artifacts into prints, lace and embroidery, creating garments that contrasted with the historical environment that inspired them. Dresses were made of contemporary fabrics, such as crochet, tulle and poplin, remaining faithful to the taste of the season for their simplified elegance. “All these extraordinary inspirations were interpreted in an accessible and fresh way, using easy-to-use materials,” Valli explained. This approach injected the collection with a freshness and accessibility, which will certainly captivate the young global community of Valli fans.
Nina Ricci
Harris Reed is injecting a new wave of creativity into the archives of the legendary fashion house Nina Ricci, bringing out her lifelong craftsmanship. Inspired by the bold juxtaposition of sensuality, highlighted by the iconic heart neckline of haute couture, it balances suggestive cutouts and transparent fabrics with bold prints and the playful spirit of jeans, creating a fascinating dialogue between patterns and emotions.
The London designer, recognized for dressing personalities such as Harry Styles and Florence Pugh, landed in Paris with truly iconic pieces, adding a touch of whim and charm to each creation.
Behind the scenes, he shared his evolution since the first season: “With the first season, I did everything in a very extravagant way, huge shoes, extravagant hats. This season, I found the balance in each look. Nothing is excessively restrictive or tight.”
The sinuous gala dresses in shimmering lace or holographic mesh featured rows of black bows that went down the sleeves, while the oversized suits were made of materials such as python print and mint metallic leather. Some of his designs evoked the essence of Schiaparelli, especially the velvet dresses with front necklines and poá gloves, including what Ashley Graham wore to end the parade.
After a year at the brand, Reed feels that it is time to print his creative seal on the creations, looking more to the future than to the past of the fashion house. He summed up his vision with enthusiasm: “The juice is ready, the bottle is ready. I’m very excited about it.”
Victoria Beckham
In Victoria Beckham’s French salons, a distinct aroma floats in the air. While the brand is part of the French fashion programming, its show this season coincides with the launch of three handmade perfumes, capturing the ineffable spirit of Parisian haute couture. Little by little, but for sure, the Beckham brand is evolving into a real fashion house. The collection she presented in the sumptuous golden salons of the former Hôtel de Soyecourt, once owned by Karl Lagerfeld, last Friday – with the presence of Kim Kardashian, Pamela Anderson and the Beckham clan – is living proof of this.
In a preview of the event, Victoria Beckham shared the essential role of the personal stories behind her new perfumes, highlighting how this emphasis on the narrative is reflected in the collection. She said: “Working on the fragrances and memories connected to each of them really emphasized how important the narrative is to me, and it always has been. Last season, when I was already working on these perfumes, this element naturally found its way into the narrative of the collection. This season, it has become a starting point.” This new focus on storytelling has resulted in his most personal collection to date, with a touch of evocative abstraction.
The inspiration for Beckham’s collection came from her memories of adolescence, when she devoted herself intensely to classical and contemporary ballet, a journey that eventually led her to the world of musical theater. She shared: “I started doing ballet, tap dancing and other dance styles when I was only three or four years old. When I turned sixteen, I entered a college to focus on dance.” These experiences led her to a memorable audition for the Spice Girls, where, instead of singing a Madonna song like most, she chose “Mein Herr” from the musical “Cabaret”. A smile appeared on his face as he remembered these moments.
Starting with her humble memories of ballet rehearsals, Victoria Beckham reflected the fashion industry’s current trend towards simplicity, but infused her refined silhouette with fascinating touches of movement. The collection covered a range of pieces, from striped shirts With unique necklines to sets in optical white, greige and black colors. These clothes were skillfully cut, featuring an intriguing keyhole in the chest, which then flowed gracefully towards kaftan silhouettes or took the form of generous t-shirts. Some of these t-shirts revealed an interesting twist, displaying the washing label from the inside out.
The collaboration between Beckham’s t-shirts and signature pants stood out, in a merengue tone, full of shorts-style pockets, providing comfort without sacrificing style. In addition, the tailored shorts worn underneath added a touch of sophistication to the collection. Beckham extended these ideas to dresses and knitwear used as dresses, all abstract, but equally easy to wear.
She shared her fashion influences, saying: “I dive in and out of it, but he would love to see me in tweed, a floral dress and a brogue. So, I thought about trying to work with this sense of heritage clothes of the country.” Alongside the country-inspired tailoring pieces and the delicious country jackets, Beckham incorporated the character of antique furniture textiles that she had observed in the old houses of the British interior, where she spends her weekends. From tablecloths to curtains, these antiques inspired the embroidery and the general eccentricity of tea dresses, encapsulating the spirit of the 1930s that often characterizes Beckham’s aesthetics. Each of these clothes had a unique story to tell, adding depth to the narrative of the collection.
Yohji Yamamoto
Since 1977, Yohji Yamamoto has been a dominant force in Japanese fashion, introducing his eponymous label marked by innovative silhouettes and a sober aesthetic in black. The designer has become a unique figure, covering mastery in tailoring, expert craftsmanship and captivating storytelling, and his influence endures to this day.
In his long-awaited SS24 men’s fashion collection, Yohji Yamamoto plunged into the positive, negative and dark facets of fashion, further expanding his enigmatic universe. The setting for this show was the majestic city hall of Paris, a construction originally erected between 1535 and 1628, under the reigns of Henry IV and Louis XIII. The guests were led by grandiose carpeted staircases to a room with prehistoric touches, illuminated by bright chandeliers and divided by a long white walkway, where the models presented a collection of refined and cohesive evening clothes.
Each look incorporated Yamamoto’s iconic dark color palette, with accented shoulders and a mysterious aura involving elegantly buttoned dresses. Deconstructed fabrics fell fluidly to the ground in pure variations, while tulle ruffles took the form of abstract florals, born from Yamamoto’s creative imagination. Heart-shaped belts adorned wide pants and cut vests, followed by suits with contrasting seams that carved the waist, creating tiny proportions. Circular ornaments jumped into view in tulle clothes, as if they had a life of their own, completing the collection with a series of stunning asymmetric dresses.
Coperni
Coperni’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection, idealized by Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant, always open to innovation, offers an optimistic vision in the confluence of fashion and technology, keeping the brand highlighted in the fashion scene.
Since its launch in 2018, Coperni has stood out as a pioneering brand by establishing a new voice for technology at Paris Fashion Week. His achievements range from the iconic spray painting of a dress on Bella Hadid on SS23 to the integration of Boston Dynamics robot dogs on FW23, attracting global attention.
This season, the symphony of sound permeated every detail of the showcase, from trumpet- shaped shirts to jackets with ruffles embedded in speakers, designed to create a “zipper symphony”. Renowned Naomi Campbell led the parade, featuring a selection of transparent silhouettes, extraordinarily long sleeve buttons and imposing striped suits. The highlight, however, was the new interpretation of the Swipe bag, transformed into a 3D printed CD player.
In addition, Coperni revealed two special collaborations. First, in partnership with the PUMA innovation team, it launched a sneaker that fuses boot elements with moccasin, along with a line of performance pieces. Then, the brand collaborated with the AI company Humane, founded by former Apple technologists, to create an AI-enabled pin.
Meyer and Valliant shared the inspiration behind the collection, emphasizing the importance of sound and symphony in every detail, from the choice of location to the selection of materials. They explained that they recorded sounds of fabrics to incorporate into the soundscape of the collection. The emphasis on sound, symphony and atonement is symbolized by the use of the triangle as a key element in instrumentation. And, of course, the innovative walkman bag stands out as one of the highlights of the collection.
They also highlighted the brand’s love for technology and its futuristic vision, continually inviting people to share their inventions. Coperni is positioned as a platform for technology in the fashion industry, and designers are excited about the continuous integration of the technology they love into fashion.