Schiaparelli, Christian Dior, and Giambattista Valli Take to the Runway

BY Beatriz Leal

January 22, 2024

See What Happened on the First Day of Haute Couture Fashion Week

As tradition dictates, Schiaparelli opened Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week this morning (January 22).

Surrealism is the maison’s hallmark – in this Spring/Summer 2024 collection, it manifested in a perfect blend of classic craftsmanship and high-tech elements. Daniel Roseberry presents it as a tribute to Elsa Schiaparelli’s fascination with astrology and an exploration of contradictions.

Highlights include structured shoulders, pearl-embroidered fringes, Swarovski crystal dresses, and the integration of obsolete technology, such as microchips. One of Elsa Schiaparelli’s distinctive signatures, the “Keyhole,” was showcased in a dress with elements resembling both petals and scales.

The maison’s runway also highlighted the use of velvet, vinyl, and sheer materials, combined with broad silhouettes and cowboy boots.

Schiaparelli spring/summer 2024 haute couture
Photo Credit: Courtesy of Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli spring/summer 2024 haute couture
Photo Credit: Courtesy of Schiaparelli

Presented at the Rodin Museum in Paris, Christian Dior’s Spring/Summer 2024 haute couture collection runway was surrounded by Isabella Ducrot’s Big Aura installation, featuring 23 Ottoman-inspired dresses hanging on the walls.

Maria Grazia Chiuri views Big Aura as an element that permeates haute couture, a realm for contemplation, where each piece is unique and carries its own aura. By delving into Dior’s history, specifically the 1952 La Cigale dress, Chiuri crafts a collection that blurs the line between art and life, emphasizing the moiré fabric and its geometric lines.

Velvet and organza dresses, coats with imposing collars, wide skirts featuring exaggerated cutouts, overlapping layers, trousers, embroidery, and a feather cape in gold, white, grey, burgundy, green, blue, yellow, and black are highlights of Dior’s Spring/Summer 2024 haute couture collection.

Christian Dior spring/summer 2024 haute couture
Photo Credit: Courtesy of Dior

Giambattista Valli was inspired by the timeless beauty of flowers and nature when creating his Spring/Summer 2024 couture collection, infusing it with effervescent volumes reminiscent of fresh blossoms.

Valli views couture as an amplification of the extraordinary, resembling an art form where shapes are sculpted through draping, and volumes are dictated by the whispers of fabrics. He considers the art of couture to be in the gesture and technical prowess of the atelier, describing it as a magical process that opens up into the infinite beauty of the unfinished and the unfinished beauty of infinity.

The collection commenced with a simple bustier bodysuit in pitch-black velvet adorned with white roses, evolving into a series of embellished minidresses with variously inflated tulle draping. Among the rustling taffeta silks in pale colors, some printed with ombré shadows of flowers, standout pieces in obsidian-black velvet introduced regal drama and dark romance to the whimsical repertoire of elysian filles-en-fleur.

Giambattista Valli spring/summer 2024 haute couture
Photo Credit: Isidore Montag/Go Runway

Giambattista Valli spring/summer 2024 haute couture
Photo Credit: Isidore Montag/Go Runway