SPFW DAY 2

BY Louize Lima

November 8, 2023

FOZ

Courtesy of FOZ

On Day 2 of SPFW, designer Antônio Castro shared with ELLE Brazil his thoughts on the inaugural fashion show of FOZ, envisioning “The Fantastic Chocolate Factory” in a Brazilian context. Aiming for an authentic Brazilian approach, he drew inspiration from the narrative of cachaça. The show, set in the fictional “Alambique Fantasia,” featured prints reminiscent of bars, lace inspired by traditional cachaça liters, and beads reflecting the decor of homes in Alagoas, where FOZ was founded in 2020. Handmade finishes, like lace and patchworks, were prominent in the brand’s creations, with a color palette ranging from soft tones to vibrant reds and greens.

The Paradise

Courtesy of The Paradise

“The Paradise” presented its ‘Paradise Holiday’ collection, offering a range of festive attire perfect for year-end celebrations and Carnival. The runway showcased bright ensembles and colorful prints, crafted using artificial intelligence, featuring button-down shirts, tops, and long skirts made from lighter fabrics. The diverse cast included Preta Gil, Luiza Brunet, and Laissa Guerreira, with music from Marília Mendonça, Joelma, and Marina Lima.

Marina Bitu

Courtesy of Marina BITU

Marina Bitu’s SPFW show this year was inspired by fungi, specifically a species considered the oldest in the world, found in Cariri (CE). The collection’s visuals incorporated pleats, fringes, wavy bars, and tapestry elements in neutral and earthy colors. Some organic prints symbolized the female reproductive system, achieving authenticity without resorting to caricature.

Mateus Cardoso

Courtesy of MATEUS CARDOSO

Mateus Cardoso showcased a fusion of classic elements, marking the brand’s evolution over the past three years. A notable change was the introduction of women’s clothing. The new collection modernized the brand’s signature pieces, including jackets with cutouts and ties, square silhouette blazers, and shirts with expanded proportions, complemented by stylish shorts and high-waisted pants.
Sou de Algodão
Sou de Algodão is a movement promoting responsible consumption. Its SPFW fashion show featured 40 looks by 9 designers, such as Dendezeiro, Ronaldo Silveste, and Heloísa Faria, focusing on the 150-year history of jeans. The runway displayed an array of blues, textures, and shapes, all crafted from responsible Brazilian cotton.

Rafael Caetano

Courtesy of RAFAEL CAETANO

Rafael Caetano drew inspiration from Belchior’s song ‘Coração Selvagem’ for his SPFW collection, focusing on 1970s fashion and targeting mature men. The collection included flare pants, robes, and shirts in fabrics like cambraia, tricoline, cotton twill, and satin, in earthy, peach, and olive tones.

TA studios

Courtesy of TA Studios

TA Studios’ parade at the N56 edition of SPFW emphasized comfort and challenged women’s clothing norms, using the imagery of emperors as a contrast. The collection featured knitting, loose fits, and a casual approach, with tarot and gypsy deck elements, particularly in accessories like medals and coins.

Walério Araújo

Courtesy of WALERIO ARAUJO

Walério Araújo’s collection was inspired by astrology, showcasing theatrical looks representing the 12 Zodiac signs and elements of the Chinese horoscope. The collection stood out with extravagant features like a bright fish blazer set, scorpion claw gloves, and Aries horn head accessories, with red and metallic tones dominating.

Handred

Courtesy of HANDRED

Handred concluded SPFW’s second day with a collection honoring architect Sérgio Rodrigues. The designs incorporated prints of rooms and furniture sketches, Handred’s signature hand embroidery, and materials and techniques from decoration, such as mirrors, wood, upholstery, and capitonê. Leather was also a key component.