The renowned French fashion house Hermès constantly favors tradition over fashion. The house’s experimental projects maintain its ethos with refined elegance and flawless workmanship. “[Hermès] is perhaps the only establishment in the world where one cannot purchase a single item that is not in flawless taste,” the New York Times declared in 1940.
The Fall/Winter 2023 Hermès collection seemed to take a very distinct approach to sensuality. The company focused on the allure of confidence this season. Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, the show’s creative director, sent models down the multi-lane catwalk on March 4 wearing exquisitely layered monochromatic ensembles that exuded confidence that was both intimidating and alluring. The collection is housed in a desert-colored room with water ripples and pays homage to the company’s late creator with equestrian-inspired pieces. From quilted jackets to riding caps, Cybulski’s designs reflect the house’s commitment to creating consistently stylish yet classic clothing. Every year, a new theme is added to the brand to represent the creativity and innovation of the creative directors. According to the ideals of the Maison, “the vocabulary of shapes, the palette of hues, and the combinations of materials are enriched and renewed” each season. The brand has a wearable emphasis for the Fall/Winter 2023 collection.
The steady stream of outfits is set in traditional autumn colors like auburn, taupe, chocolate, and camel, with pops of cranberry and a subdued buttery yellow. Empowerment was the style strategy on this catwalk, along with a bold color narrative. Strategic texture mixing was evident in full force, but pattern play was conspicuously missing. Rich knit shorts and skirt sets were accessorized with satin jockey hats and tubular leather purses, and fur bomber jackets and pea coats were worn on top of thigh-high suede boots.
The star of this collection was the monochromatic aesthetic. The neutral plus red color scheme hinted at the luxury associated with the brand with careful attention to texture. The show’s recurring themes included tall, slender boots, exquisitely designed sweaters, and outfits with exquisite silhouettes. Most of the collection relied on traditional design principles, such as luxurious leathers and silks and timelessly crafted items, and incorporated them in trendy designs. For instance, the aforementioned short styles were very different from the teeny tiny silhouettes of Hermés’ Fall 2022 collection. The collection concentrates more on a boxy Bermuda style that reads chic and contemporary in thick wool and leather versions. Midi skirts are in pencil suede and free-flowing silk variants belted at the waist in thin leather saddles.
The coats were the highlight of the collection. There were blanket coats, trenches made of billowing alpaca, quilted jackets with matching, enormous purses, hooded styles made of smooth calfskin, and long duffel coats made of double-faced cashmere. Rich layers of clothing encircled the body without being oppressive. Lean and light, the silhouettes were based on the concept of adaptability. The 1920s couture of Vionnet and Poiret inspired many of the plissé lamé gowns in the lineup. Every outfit was completed with a monochromatic rigor by suede knee-high boots and purses, such as structured horsehair styles, bucket bags, and Birkin.