On a runway raked like a ceremonial arena and set with a moody, earthy floor, Hermès unveiled a Fall/Winter 2025 collection that radiated strength, sensuality, and signature luxury. With timing as symbolic as the statement itself—International Women’s Day—creative director Nadège Vanhee boldly declared, “It’s really about being assertive. It’s about strength. About being sexy and sophisticated—and just owning it.” And that’s exactly what her collection embodied: a powerful expression of modern femininity rooted in tradition yet strikingly forward-thinking.
Titled “Leather Dandy,” Vanhee’s lineup was a daring ode to craftsmanship, structure, and sensual tailoring. One of her most impactful collections in her decade-long tenure at Hermès, it offered a confident departure from the house’s historically bourgeois codes—without losing the brand’s essence. Sleek, hyper-slim silhouettes and exquisite materials—glossy glove leathers, felted fabrics, and brogue-perforated tailoring—were orchestrated into a look that merged equestrian refinement with biker attitude.
This season, the Hermès woman is unafraid. She walks with purpose—on flat winklepicker boots or high-heeled brogues—and her wardrobe is an armor of quiet power. Vanhee’s play on feminine strength was evident in the contrast between rugged practicality and seductive elegance. Leather coats unzipped into blankets. Zip-back riding coats revealed quilted liners, subtly referencing the idea of duality—protection and reveal, strength and softness.
Color was used sparingly but purposefully. Dominated by deep, nuanced blacks—ranging from charcoal to ink—interrupted by earthy browns, milky beiges, and bold limes, the palette underscored the collection’s understated luxury. A standout was a quilted bomber jacket styled over a turtleneck and leather mini shorts, worn with tall boots—a look both sensual and grounded.
Vanhee also nodded to practicality in an era where fashion increasingly embraces functionality. Gone were oversized puffers—replaced by reversible overcoats, silk gabardine bombers, goatskin pea coats, and lush shearling outerwear. Long wool layers with soft lapels mimicked scarves, while fingerless gloves and layered knitwear gave a cozy yet polished feel. The styling tricks were subtle yet savvy, empowering women to dress with individuality and ease.
Accessories remained essential to the narrative—structured bags in rich leather, silver-bit saddlebags, and boots that reinforced the house’s equestrian soul. The modularity of garments, the hint of hidden zippers, and the layering possibilities spoke to a wardrobe that adapts, transforms, and endures.
As Nadège Vanhee marks over ten years at Hermès, her design language has matured into a refined blend of quiet authority and timeless chic. From her off-schedule blockbuster show in New York to this latest Paris presentation, she’s consistently redefined the Hermès woman—not through loud statements, but through perfectly tailored whispers of luxury and strength. In a season obsessed with oversized silhouettes, Hermès stood apart by celebrating the power of precision. This wasn’t just fashion—it was a manifesto. A call for women to own their space, their sensuality, and their style—with grace, edge, and unshakable confidence.
